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Disco Boy at Morning Glory Wall: A Bold Trad Line in Keystone

Keystone, Colorado United States
crack climbing
roof move
bolted trad
short pitch
high desert
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Disco Boy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Disco Boy offers a sharp, focused trad climb on Keystone’s Morning Glory Wall. This single pitch tests precise crack skills through a protected roof move before easing past bolts to the anchors, making it an ideal challenge for climbers refining their trad technique."

Disco Boy at Morning Glory Wall: A Bold Trad Line in Keystone

Disco Boy stands out as a focused, single-pitch trad climb tucked into the Morning Glory Wall, part of the Keystone formation near Montezuma, Colorado. This route invites climbers into a crack system that quickly demands attention and precision. Starting with a finger-to-hand size crack, the climb curls seamlessly into a small, right-facing corner, where climbers encounter two strategically placed bolts that safeguard some of its more technical sections. The first bolt protects a delicate move just beneath an overhanging roof, a feature that dares climbers to trust their gear and body positioning. The section above requires a deft, upward-and-left maneuver past a third bolt before reaching the anchors.

The rock's texture here is firm but sharp, offering good friction if you commit to each hold confidently. The crack challenges your placement skills, as gear calls for a lighter rack, capped by a #2 cam for the largest placements. The route's brevity—just one pitch—provides a concentrated burst of climbing that’s perfect for those looking to sharpen their crack climbing technique without the endurance demands of multi-pitch routes.

The surrounding area reflects Keystone’s characteristic high desert environment, with scrubby pines and wide open skies framing the wall. Morning Glory Wall itself spots a varied aspect that catches sunlight during midday, highlighting the fine details of the granite surface. Climbers should be prepared for exposure to sun, marking hydration and timing as key considerations for comfort. The approach is a modest hike, typical of the Keystone crags, threading through mixed terrain of loose scree and patches of scrub brush, which demands steady footing and reasonable navigation skills.

From a practical standpoint, this climb suits trad climbers who appreciate a clean line demanding both crack proficiency and confident gear placements. While the bolt placements add a layer of security, the route’s rating of 5.9 hints at the need for competent technique and composure under the roof section. The single pitch length means it fits well into a half-day climbing itinerary, making it accessible to both local adventurers and visitors passing through the Colorado front range.

After topping out, climbers rappel back down or walk off via a short descent trail that veers left leading to the base. The descent is straightforward but benefits from attention to rope management, especially in windy conditions. This route proves a solid introduction to Keystone’s more technical walls, balancing challenge with quality rock and a stunning backdrop that invites repeated attempts and steady skill-building.

Climber Safety

The roof section requires precise protection; relying on the bolts and a well-placed #2 cam is critical. Loose rock can be spotted near the approach trail, so proceed with stable footing. The descent rappel can swing in the wind, so ensure anchors and rope ends are secured.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via a short trail through loose scree—wear sturdy shoes for traction.

Start early in the day to avoid intense sun on the wall by midday.

Bring plenty of water; shade is limited near the route.

Double-check rope anchor setup for a safe rappel after the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating reflects a moderate technical challenge with a key roof section that adds an extra push. It feels direct but fair, with good bolt protection easing the mental load. Climbers familiar with Keystone’s granite will recognize the balance between gear placements and smooth moves on this pitch.

Gear Requirements

The route requires a light standard trad rack, with three bolts placed at critical spots. A #2 cam is essential to protect the roof move, along with smaller gear for the crack system.

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Tags

crack climbing
roof move
bolted trad
short pitch
high desert