"Disaster Response stands out on Squamish’s Pox Wall for its steeper-than-average 5.10 trad climbing. With three sustained pitches of crack climbing and a challenging roof crux, this route demands solid gear skills and rewards those ready for a powerful, technical experience."
Disaster Response offers climbers a chance to push beyond Squamish’s usual 5.10 routes with its steeper, committed pitches that demand both technical skill and solid gear placement. Located on Pox Wall, this three-pitch trad climb lies just outside downtown Squamish, British Columbia, drawing climbers who crave a more sustained crack challenge framed by rugged cliffs and forested slopes.
The approach starts at the base area on the right side, offering a slightly mossy start that clings to the shade for most of the morning. Pitch one serves as an introduction, following a thin crack that gradually angles upward toward a belay ledge. The rock here keeps the moss’s grip light but steady, requiring attention to footholds, while the nearby rap bolts—offset about 50 feet right from the belay—demand focus on descent planning.
Pitch two is the heart of the climb: a steep, physical push up either a left-hand fist crack or a right thin crack. Choosing the left crack delivers powerful jamming through the vertical angle, where #3 and #4 camalots come into their own. Midway, a horizontal break helps place gear, but the key roof section forces a tough undercling move—this crux tests your strength and positioning. Once past the roof, easier moves lead to bolted protection, a relief after the sustained effort below.
The final pitch guides you right, onward to a gently overhanging hand crack that stretches for 40 feet. It's a rewarding transition from the crimp and jam sequences below, featuring bold underclings and overlaps that keep you engaged until reaching the high anchor. The rock remains solid, but the runout sections suggest attentive gear placements remain important, especially as the route gains exposure toward the top.
Descending Disaster Response requires keen awareness of the rappel setup: a 60-meter rope is necessary to safely return, with critical rap anchors positioned about 50 feet to the right of the pitch one belay bolts. Missing these can lead to an awkward and potentially risky retreat, so scout carefully once at the top.
This route shines for climbers comfortable with finger to fist crack techniques, and a rack loaded with doubles from tiny cams to #3 Camalots. Having an extra #4 camalot is wise to secure the steeper crack sections more confidently. For those eyeing the finger crack option, small to green C4 cams will cover the gear needs well.
Though the climb stays mostly shaded on its lower pitches, it benefits from afternoon sunshine near the top, making spring and early summer ideal seasons when humidity is low and rock friction high. Wear solid climbing shoes with good edging, and bring plenty of water to stay hydrated for the long haul.
Disaster Response balances physical exertion with mental focus, offering a true test of crack climbing prowess in a setting that rewards preparation and perseverance. Whether you’re sharpening your trad skills or hunting an intense multi-pitch route with quality protection, this line on Pox Wall delivers a memorable Squamish adventure grounded in practical challenges and striking natural features.
Carefully locate the rappel anchors at the top of pitch one; they sit about 50 feet to the right of the belay bolts and can be easy to miss, especially in low light. The first pitch’s mossy sections require cautious foot placement to avoid slips. Watch for potential loose rock near the roof crux and maintain secure gear placements throughout.
Keep an eye out for rap anchors about 50 feet right of P1 belay—missing them complicates descent.
The first pitch is mossy and shaded; wear shoes with good grip and expect some slick holds.
Bring an extra #4 camalot to comfortably protect the roof crux on pitch two.
Late spring through early summer offers the best friction and avoids damp conditions.
The fist crack variation uses a rack emphasizing doubles from fingers to #3 Camalots, with at least one #4 handy to secure the steepest sections. Finger cracks require a range from small cams up to green Camalots for safe protection.
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