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Dirty Snatch: A Bold Trad Climb on Wavy Gravy Wall

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
trad crack
dihedral
single pitch
dirty dihedral
high Sierra
requires trad anchor
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirty Snatch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Snatch is a sharp, 80-foot trad climb on Wavy Gravy Wall near Mammoth Lakes. It demands steady protection in a vertical crack before navigating a challenging, dirt-lined dihedral. Perfect for experienced climbers seeking a bold, focused adventure in the Sierra Eastside."

Dirty Snatch: A Bold Trad Climb on Wavy Gravy Wall

Dirty Snatch offers a compelling test of skill and nerve along the sharp edges of California’s Sierra Eastside. This single-pitch, 80-foot trad route carves its way up a vertical crack transitioning into a gritty dihedral, set in the raw and rugged Horseshoe Lake area near Mammoth Lakes. From the moment you engage the initial crack, the climb demands confidence and precision. The start feels bold—your gear placements here are secure but require focus to trust your holds and pro. Above, the terrain eases into a slab that shifts the rhythm before you face the defining dihedral section, coated in dirt and rock slings, calling for thoughtful protection strategies and steady movement.

The rock breathes challenge and reward simultaneously; while the crack provides solid pro opportunities, the dirtier dihedral asks climbers to read the rock carefully, cleaning holds where possible and leaning on well-placed slings. It’s a demanding sequence that negotiates both technique and mental grit. When you reach the top of the climb, the route offers an unconventional finish: there’s no established anchor at the summit, so you'll need to either traverse out to bolts on the adjacent “The Giving Tree” route or build a trad anchor in the naturally featured ledges.

The approach to Dirty Snatch is straightforward, tucked in the less trafficked reaches of the Wavy Gravy Wall. Walk through sparse forest and granite outcroppings to find a route that slices directly right of The Giving Tree, a nearby sport climb. Though the wall is exposed to sun by mid-morning, the cooler shade from towering pines softens the heat on early starts, making spring through fall the optimal climbing window.

This climb suits seasoned trad climbers who appreciate a touch of boldness and technical challenge without the complications of long multi-pitch routes. While it doesn’t have high star ratings in local guides, climbers value it for offering solid protection and a rewarding, direct line on quality granite. Be prepared to bring a complete rack with cams and nuts, plus slings for tricky placements and anchors. Expect to rappel off sport route bolts nearby; the lack of a fixed anchor at the top means a safe, practiced rigging approach is vital.

In essence, Dirty Snatch balances an invigorating physical challenge with the rugged beauty of the Sierra Eastside. It’s a climb that invites you to sharpen your trad skills, find flow through tough spots, and soak up the serene but wild atmosphere around Horseshoe Lake. Whether you're chasing mastery or simply looking to experience a quiet, potent route away from the crowds, Dirty Snatch demands respect and rewards those who rise to it.

Climber Safety

No fixed anchors at the summit mean climbers must be adept at building solid trad anchors or traversing to sport route bolts safely. The dirt in the dihedral can obscure holds, so cleaning and probing for sound placements is crucial to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and shade near the base.

Bring multiple sling lengths to thread the dihedral securely.

Practice clean rope work for the top-out traverse to adjacent bolts.

Expect loose dirt on the dihedral; brush holds before moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating holds true but leans on the heady side with the initial vertical crack that requires bold, confident placements. The dihedral doesn’t add technical difficulty but tests your gear judgement and composure. Compared to other local climbs, it’s less polished but rewarding for climbers comfortable with dirtier terrain and trad protection.

Gear Requirements

A complete trad rack with cams and nuts is essential, plus rock slings for the dihedral’s tricky placements. Use the nearby sport route bolts for rappelling and consider building your own anchor where possible.

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Tags

trad crack
dihedral
single pitch
dirty dihedral
high Sierra
requires trad anchor