"Dirty Love delivers a solid 5.8 sport climb up five bolts with an optional extension around the arete, perfect for climbers wanting a steady, approachable challenge near Keystone. Its straightforward nature and scenic location make it a trusted favorite for warm-ups and mellow days on the rock."
Dirty Love offers climbers a straightforward, yet rewarding 5.8 sport route at Haus Rock in the Keystone area of Colorado. The climb follows five bolts that steadily ascend the wall, culminating at a chain anchor that marks the top. For those looking to extend the experience, an additional finish veers right around the arete to a second set of chains, adding a bit of intrigue to this otherwise reliable line. The rock itself is typical Colorado granite—solid, textured, and receptive to confident footwork. As you move upward, the wall’s moderate angle provides both engagement and a chance to focus on clipping smoothly, maintaining rhythm without overexertion. Haus Rock sits comfortably within an accessible climbing zone, offering spectacular views of the surrounding foothills and the wide-open skies typical of the Front Range.
The approach to Dirty Love is short and manageable, making this an excellent option for climbers seeking a quick warm-up or a relaxed afternoon send. While the route’s rating suggests it leans towards beginner to intermediate sport climbers, its fixed protection requires some scrutiny. Recent reports highlight concerns about the anchor’s condition—one bolt has been ripped out and the remaining hardware is minimal, urging climbers to exercise caution or bring additional gear to back up the anchor if planning a second.
Weather in this part of Colorado can shift quickly, so early morning starts behind the east-facing wall ensure comfortable temperatures and consistent light. With its single pitch and moderate length, Dirty Love is accessible year-round, although summer days bring heat that can make the rock warm to the touch. Keeping hydrated and managing timing can enhance your experience here.
Overall, Dirty Love’s charm is in its simplicity—solid protection, manageable difficulty, and a scenic setting that encourages steady movement and a calm focus. Whether you’re brushing up on sport technique or just want a no-frills climb with mountain views, this route satisfies with honest climbing and approachable terrain.
The anchor’s integrity is compromised—one bolt is missing and another stands as just a stud. Climbers should cautiously inspect the protection before lowering and consider adding their own anchor backups to ensure a safe rappel or lowering.
Check your anchor carefully before lowering—some bolts have been compromised.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the east-facing rock face.
Borrow chains from nearby route 'They Call Me Shorty' for anchoring if needed.
Wear shoes with good edge grip to capitalize on the granite’s texture.
Equipped with five or seven bolts, though recent reports indicate the main anchor has one bolt ripped out and the other anchors are minimal studs; extra gear or backup slings recommended for descent safety.
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