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Dirty Love: A Trad Climb with Quirky Moves on Zappa's Tooth

Estes Park, Colorado United States
crack climbing
stem moves
arete
single pitch
trad gear
technical
exposed
Length: 175 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirty Love
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Love offers a single-pitch trad climb on Zappa’s Tooth featuring unconventional moves and rewarding crack climbing. This route challenges your technique and coordination with a playful line that’s as fun as it is technical."

Dirty Love: A Trad Climb with Quirky Moves on Zappa's Tooth

Dirty Love stands out as an engaging single-pitch traditional climb on Zappa's Tooth, offering a distinctive combination of technical maneuvers and rewarding crack climbing just northeast of Estes Park Valley. From the moment your hands connect with the rock, you find yourself navigating a sequence of unconventional moves that demand creativity and body awareness rather than pure strength. The route begins just right of two scraggly bushes, immediately inviting you into a playful challenge of stem jams and dynamic body shifts. It's not a straightforward journey—each handhold and foothold seems alive, requiring you to puzzle through the movement to find the right positions.

After surmounting these initial moves, you push through a pronounced bulge, emerging into a clean jam crack that invites confident hand and finger placement. Following this crack leads you to a sharp arete, where a few precise moves push upward before allowing a careful step back left into a secure dihedral. The final stretch demands classic jam-and-stem technique to reach the top, where the rewarding exposure and crisp mountain air are well-earned.

The rock here demands respect—not for its fragility, but because the route requires a mix of standard and wider cam placements to safely protect the changing line. A typical rack loaded with doubles of #2 and #3 Camalots, combined with some big cams for wider sections, ensures you can guard the moves with confidence. Though the approach angle and slightly unusual moves may throw you off at first, the sequence flows once you find your rhythm.

Located along Colorado Highway 7, within the Estes Park Valley's scenic embrace, Zappa's Tooth offers climbers not just the beauty of rugged terrain but the intimacy of a lower elevation trad climb with that old-school flavor. The area's mix of sun exposure and moderate elevation means early summer and fall provide ideal conditions—avoid the midday heat to keep your hands fresh and your confidence high.

Accessing Dirty Love involves a short but engaging walk to the base of the formation, where well-trodden game trails thread through pockets of pines and rocky outcrops. The descent is straightforward—a downclimb of moderate difficulty leading back to the approach trail—though care is warranted as some loose gravel sections ask for deliberate footwork.

Whether you’re looking to sharpen your crack climbing skills, enjoy a technical single pitch with character, or simply taste a solid trad experience near Estes Park, Dirty Love rewards those willing to embrace its quirks. Don’t forget to pack enough water, a solid rack, and patience—the rock is eager to challenge, and the view from the top will remind you why those challenges are worth meeting head-on.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the initial bushes and take care on the bulge section where falls might knock gear loose. Protection opportunities, while generally solid, demand deliberate placements especially in wider sections—bring extra padding and test placements carefully before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length175 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid midday heat and keep your hands dry.

Wear shoes with good edging and smearing capability for the varied holds.

Brush off the base before starting to ensure solid footing for initial moves.

Pack wide cams beyond your usual sizes to cover funky protection spots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Dirty Love leans slightly on the adventurous side of this grade, due mainly to the non-standard moves early on and the funky protection sequences. The crux isn’t overly difficult but requires precise body positioning and a good mental focus on gear placements. Compared to other routes in the area, this climb feels like a fresh take on the classic 5.9 trad challenge—less about brute force and more about fluid technique.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with doubles of #2 and #3 Camalots is essential. Be sure to bring large cams to cover the wider, less predictable sections of the crack system. Protection placements can be quirky, so versatility and padding are key.

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Tags

crack climbing
stem moves
arete
single pitch
trad gear
technical
exposed