5.9, Trad
Mammoth Lakes
California ,United States
"Dirty Girl is a concise trad climb on First Cliff’s Right Tower, featuring a powerful wide crack crux and a moderate traverse at the top. It’s a solid choice for climbers seeking a hands-on 5.9 experience with thoughtful protection in the Sierra Eastside."
Dirty Girl offers a focused taste of classic Sierra Eastside trad climbing, set against the rugged backdrop of Mammoth Lakes’ First Cliff in California. This single-pitch route stretches 80 feet along a striking crack system that tests your technique and strength without overwhelming commitment. The climb starts with a wide, powerful section near the base that demands steady footwork and firm hand jams to overcome its grunty nature. Beyond this initial challenge, the crack eases into more moderate terrain, allowing climbers to find rhythm and breathe before the technical finish. As you near the top, the route calls for a confident rightward traverse protected by a fixed bolt, guiding you toward the What’shisface anchors. This final move introduces a bit of exposure, with the bolt serving as an important safety point during the horizontal move. After reaching the anchors, climbers can lower off safely, completing a succinct but memorable pitch.
The location’s granite walls rise over Rock Creek and the Patricia Bowl area, places well-known for their freedom and quiet reflective moments amid the Sierra Nevada’s expansive wilderness. First Cliff’s Right Tower, home to Dirty Girl, balances rock quality with approachable climbing that feels rewarding at the 5.9 trad grade. This climb accommodates trad climbers who appreciate solid jams paired with a bit of positional climbing where protection placements require thoughtful consideration. Protection extends up to 4 inches, calling for a rack that includes larger cams to safely negotiate the powerful lower crack. The well-placed bolt near the top ensures security during the traverse, a rare embrace of sport-like safety in an otherwise traditional route.
Access to the climb is straightforward, with moderate hiking through forested paths bringing you to the base amidst granite slabs and scattered pines. The setting encourages an early start to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall, preserving grip and keeping the rock pleasantly cool. The surrounding area offers impressive views of Mammoth Lakes and the dramatic Sierra peaks, giving your climb an added layer of visual reward as the daylight moves across the rocks.
Whether you’re looking to sharpen your crack climbing or simply enjoy a concise, well-protected single pitch, Dirty Girl delivers a no-frills experience that blends physical engagement and technical skill. Prepare for the crux’s grunt—wide hands and strong feet will get you through—and come equipped with a gear rack that reflects the route’s protection needs. Thoughtful planning around timing and approach sets you up for a safe and satisfying climb. This route stands out as an accessible challenge with just enough complexity to satisfy trad enthusiasts seeking a memorable moment on First Cliff.
While the bolt near the top offers key protection, the wide crack at the base demands confident gear placements and attention to footwork to avoid slips. Rock quality is generally solid, but loose debris around the approach and at the base can present minor hazards. Avoid climbing after rain to ensure optimal friction on the granite.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall, keeping the rock cool and grippy.
Bring cams up to 4 inches for reliable placements, especially in the wide crux section.
Use the bolt on the top traverse for security; the move feels exposed without it.
Scout the approach carefully through mixed forest and granite slabs; allow 20-30 minutes from the main trail.
Prepare a standard trad rack with gear up to 4 inches to protect the varied crack widths. A fixed bolt at the top safeguards the concluding rightward traverse, bridging the climb to a safe rappel station.
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