"Dirty Bush demands precise footwork and thoughtful gear placements on a thin, flared seam that twists through low-angle granite. A short but intricate climb, it rewards climbers who relish technical movement and finding solid protection amidst moderate exposure."
Dirty Bush offers a focused climb that weaves technical seam climbing with a subtle traverse, set against the rugged backdrop of the Ramona Wall in North San Diego County. The route demands attention from the start, beginning with a delicate slab approach that requires carefully navigating past the distinctive bush giving the climb its name. This opening section offers no protection for about 15 feet, challenging climbers to trust their footwork and mental steadiness as they inch toward the thin, flared seam above.
Once engaged in the seam, the climbing eases into moderate angles but remains thoughtfully demanding. The crack’s subtle flares invite precise hand and finger placements, rewarding climbers who come prepared with small nuts and thumb-sized cams. The route’s protection grows more reliable as the seam leads upward, eventually bending left—here the path shifts as the seam thins and arcs toward a hand crack. This key feature is crucial for placing protection and staging for the final moves.
The last stretch requires a tactical right traverse to clip the final lead bolt on the adjacent Dragonfly route—a helpful fixed point before continuing up to the final anchor. The Dragonfly anchor marks the endpoint of a single pitch that covers roughly 95 feet of carefully measured movement. Throughout, climbers are treated to the silent dialogue of granite faces, where subtle texture shifts and natural holds become trusted companions.
This climb is ideal for those comfortable with modest risk and eager to fine-tune their gear placements within a grade that sits at 5.8. The route won’t reward hesitation but will teach patience and commitment. Expect a short but engaging experience, with the quiet but bold challenge of a technical seam exposed against clear California skies.
Preparation is key: bring a small rack focused on thumb-to-#1 Camalot sizes, a collection of small nuts, and extra slings for the traverse. Shoes with sticky rubber and steady balance will help immensely on the slab start. Approach is straightforward on well-marked trails from the Poway Crags parking area, taking around 15 minutes. The climb’s north-facing aspect provides partial shade during morning climbs, making spring and fall the sweet spot for comfortable temperatures.
Descend by rappelling from the Dragonfly anchor or retracing the slab approach carefully on foot. Be mindful of loose sections near the top anchor area. This route is perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their traditional gear skills in a scenic, low-traffic area close to San Diego’s urban edge, blending a taste of adventure with practicality and careful planning.
The first 15 feet lack protection, making a fall here particularly risky. Ensure your footwork is secure on the slab before committing. Loose rock near the top traverse demands caution. Also, plan your descent carefully; downclimbing without a rappel can be tricky due to slippery slabs.
Start early to climb in cooler morning temperatures and enjoy partial shade.
Sticky rubber shoes improve confidence on the slab approach and technical footwork.
Double-check placements in the thin seam—small nuts often fit better than cams low on the route.
Prepare for a short rappel or careful downclimb from the Dragonfly anchor at the top.
Bring a rack composed of small nuts and cams ranging from thumb size to #1 Camalot. Expect no protection for the initial 15 feet. Extra slings come in handy for the technical traverse near the top.
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