HomeClimbingDirty Blonde

Dirty Blonde: Classic Sport Climbing on White Cliff’s East Wall

Frisco, Colorado United States
slabby start
multi-pitch
sport climbing
double rope rappel
east wall
Colorado limestone
Length: 140 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Dirty Blonde
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Blonde offers a solid two-pitch sport climb on White Cliff’s sunlit East Wall, featuring a slabby start beneath a hornblende roof and a straightforward rappel descent. This route balances approachable difficulty with rewarding exposure and clear protection, perfect for those seeking a reliable half-day adventure in 10 Mile Canyon."

Dirty Blonde: Classic Sport Climbing on White Cliff’s East Wall

Dirty Blonde cuts a distinct line along the right edge of the East Wall at White Cliff in Colorado’s 10 Mile Canyon, offering a blend of solid sport climbing with enough character to engage both newcomers and seasoned climbers. Beginning from a slabby toe, this route gently challenges you with a 5.6 slab that requires quiet focus, as no protection guards this initial section. The rock here is polished but reliable, demanding confident footwork as you reach a ledge just beneath the defining hornblende roof that anchors the middle portion of the climb.

From this point, Dirty Blonde unfolds over two pitches of bolted sport climbing. The first pitch, protected by four bolts, invites steady movement upward to a comfortable ledge with a secure anchor—the kind of spot that gives you a moment to breathe in the canyon’s airy expanse. The second pitch continues with three more bolts, leading you through textured rock toward the route’s summit, which is secured with dual-ring anchors ready for descent.

The environment here is uncompromising yet inviting. The East Wall holds the sun in the morning hours, soaking the stone and drying the rock quickly after early spring rains. As you climb, the canyon’s rugged contours frame distant peaks, and the whisper of a gentle breeze carries down the cliff, a welcome companion to the exertion and focus sport climbing demands.

Descend options require thoughtful preparation. The top anchors allow a double-rope rappel, ideally with two 50 or 60-meter ropes. This straightforward descent drops you back to the base safely and efficiently, bypassing risk-prone downclimbing. Alternatively, an experienced team can execute a one-rope rappel to the mid-pitch anchor—positioned just below the hornblende roof—and from there downclimb or traverse carefully right into the adjacent chimney feature. This descent path calls for a cautious approach, as the rock and terrain become more exposed and potentially tricky.

Gear-wise, eight bolts provide consistent protection on the climb proper, including the rappel station at mid-height. Though sport climbing removes much of the gear-placement guesswork, climbers should still approach the initial slab with respect, as it offers no fixed protection. Bring sturdy shoes that excel on slab and slabs’ polished angles, stay well-hydrated, and start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-facing wall.

The history behind Dirty Blonde’s name sets an informal tone—it's a route that doesn’t take itself too seriously but still delivers a satisfying line with enough challenges to reward steady technique and composure. For climbers venturing to 10 Mile Canyon, this route presents a practical warm-up or a perfect half-day outing, balancing accessibility with a taste of vertical adventure amid a sharp, limestone backdrop.

Overall, Dirty Blonde embodies approachable sport climbing with reliable protection and manageable length, making it a compelling choice for visiting climbers seeking route variety within the broad White Cliff area. The crisp rock, scenic context, and straightforward descent complete a well-rounded experience in one of Colorado's notable climbing corridors.

Climber Safety

The slab at the base is unprotected and polished—hesitation here can cost a slip. Also, use double ropes for rappels to avoid rappelling off rope ends. The downclimb through the chimney/gash below the hornblende roof demands caution due to loose rock and exposure.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in morning sun and avoid afternoon heat on the east-facing wall.

Use two 50m ropes for a safe double-rope rappel down the route.

Be prepared for an unprotected slab at the start—solid slab shoes enhance control.

If downclimbing from mid-rappel, proceed carefully through the chimney; the rock can be loose.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8-, Dirty Blonde sits on the easier end of the sport spectrum but includes a few subtle moves that reward good footwork, especially on the initial slab section that lacks protection. The bolts are spaced to encourage smooth clipping and steady rhythm. The grade feels comfortable yet engaging, providing an ideal step up for climbers solid at 5.7 looking to test multi-pitch tactics.

Gear Requirements

Eight bolts secure the line, including a mid-cliff rappel station, and dual-ring anchors at the top set up for double-rope rappels. Bring two ropes (50m or 60m) for a safe descent; the slabby start is unprotected, so shoe choice and confident footwork are key.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Dirty Blonde and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

slabby start
multi-pitch
sport climbing
double rope rappel
east wall
Colorado limestone