HomeClimbingDirect Route

Direct Route on Washington Column: Yosemite's Timeless Trad Classic

Yosemite Village, California United States
chimney climb
historic route
multi-pitch trad
shaded climb
pine ledges
mixed protection
Length: 1200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Direct Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tracing the footsteps of Yosemite’s first technical climbers, the Direct Route on Washington Column delivers a gritty, chimney-rich trad experience. It’s not the valley’s most polished climb, but its history and variety guarantee a memorable adventure."

Direct Route on Washington Column: Yosemite's Timeless Trad Classic

In the shadow of Yosemite’s soaring granite faces, the Direct Route on Washington Column offers an unvarnished throwback to the park’s pioneering climbing era. This route isn’t about polished perfection, but rather about stepping into history, tracing the fingers of rock first explored by climbing legends in 1933. Stretching for roughly 1200 feet over eight pitches, it weaves a route that demands steady skill and a willingness to embrace some rough edges along the way.

The approach meanders gently through the forested base of the iconic Column, guiding climbers left toward a large gully that separates Washington Column from Royal Arches. From there, simple third-class ledges lead swiftly and directly to the route’s start. This gateway climb spends much of its length in welcoming shade when tackled early, lending relief from the California sun.

Pitch by pitch, the Direct Route unfolds with varied challenges: a gritty 5.7 face climb on the first pitch opens the door, followed by the steeper 5.9 corner on pitch two. The rock, sometimes rough and surprisingly broken in stretches, doesn’t offer the polished finger cracks familiar to other Yosemite classics but rewards with a hands-on, chimney-style experience that lets you feel Yosemite’s granite soul. Lunch Ledge—perhaps the route’s most famous waypoint—is more a reminder of climbing’s roots than a scenic perch, but it firmly anchors the route’s place in climbing lore.

Above Lunch Ledge, climbers navigate the "Fat Man" and "Charlie Brown" chimneys—choices that split the experience between safer fixed pins and more run-out, committing moves. From there, the route climbs past towering pines on ledges and dances through a series of chimneys demanding solid technique and mental focus. The upper pitches include a complicated tangle of corners and flake systems, culminating in a celebrated 5.10a crux that tests endurance and precision, before summiting the Column and descending via the North Dome Gully.

Protection on the climb calls for a traditional rack: doubles from .4" to 4" cams, a full nut set, and plenty of slings to deal with the chimneys and the sometimes awkward placements. Fixed pins appear here and there but don’t guarantee a straightforward path, so preparedness and route-finding savvy are key. A 70m rope is recommended to link pitches and minimize time at sometimes airy belay ledges.

Because of its mixed terrain—from moderate face climbing to wide chimneys—and uneven rock features, the route is best suited for climbers comfortable with moderate Yosemite trad grades, but it offers a rewarding day out with historical resonance rather than sleek modern sport climbing.

Practical considerations include starting early to enjoy cooler shade, carrying sufficient water and snacks for a long day, and planning for a somewhat long descent down the North Dome Gully. Weather can shift quickly, and the route isn’t particularly slick, but loose blocks and crumbly sections near the top demand vigilant attention.

The Direct Route on Washington Column captures a spirit of adventure for anyone eager to connect with Yosemite’s climbing origins, combining solid moves with memorable chimney jams and a genuine sense of place. It may not top today's 'best-of' lists, but it remains a valuable milestone for climbers wanting an authentic taste of the Valley’s granite history.

Climber Safety

Loose and crumbly rock features appear on upper pitches; stay alert and wear a helmet. Some belays are exposed with limited space, so careful anchor building and rope management are essential. The descent via North Dome Gully can be exposed and steep in sections—study route details beforehand.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches8
Length1200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb mostly in the shade and avoid afternoon heat.

70m rope recommended to link pitches and reduce time at belays.

Watch for crumbly rock especially near the top pitches; helmet advised.

Carry enough water and snacks for a full day, as approach and climb are lengthier.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair but leans into a sustained challenge due to route finding and exposure on tricky chimney sections. It’s a step above Yosemite’s easier classics and requires a solid trad foundation. Some pitches include short crux moves, especially on pitch 2 and the upper 5.10a variation, demanding precise footwork and commitment.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a traditional rack including doubles from .4" to 4" cams and a full nut set. A 70m rope is advisable for linking pitches comfortably. Bring ample slings for chimney sections and be ready for some fixed pins, which help but don’t define the route.

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Tags

chimney climb
historic route
multi-pitch trad
shaded climb
pine ledges
mixed protection