"Dino’s Gneiss Ride is a compelling six-pitch trad route set in the wild Valhalla Mountains of British Columbia. Combining moderate technicality with alpine terrain, it challenges climbers to navigate slabs, flakes, and cracks amid open mountain exposure and sweeping views."
Dino’s Gneiss Ride cuts through the rugged limestone faces of the Valhalla Mountains, offering climbers six pitches of adventurous trad climbing wrapped in classic alpine terrain. Starting from a low-angled grassy ledge just below a striking overhanging arch, this route demands sharp focus and thoughtful gear placements as it ascends through flakes, slabs, and cracks that test your precision and endurance without overwhelming you with hard moves. The atmosphere here is raw and open; airy slabs give way to steep sections where the rock’s texture shifts beneath your hands, urging you forward with quiet insistence. The route’s mix of moderate 5.8 to 5.9 pitches creates a rhythm of climbing that flows well and allows enough recovery to savor the surroundings.
Approach tramps through the Drinnan Pass area, advancing nearly 200 meters southeast along a gully at the base of Drinnan Slab. Forests thin as you near the slab, and the alpine breeze carries hints of pine and fresh mountain air. The start is visible from the grassy island below the arch, where the climbing begins with an initial slab that tests balance and footwork, punctuated by well-placed bolts and natural gear opportunities. Protection includes a full rack from micro cams to larger pieces, with doubles in the small sizes to accommodate the tricky cracks and flakes.
Each pitch presents its own character: the first climbs a slab with flakes guiding left beneath the arch, moving to a small ledge with miniature tree anchors. On pitch two, a piton marks the entry to a right-trending crack, moving past bolts and delicate underclings toward a narrow stance on a slab. The middle pitches preserve a steady challenge—technical slab climbing on good holds that demand clean feet and steady breathing. Pitch four breaks through an overlap with methodical moves, followed by an accessible slab and corner on pitch five that lead you toward the final climb.
The sixth pitch drops in difficulty, shifting to mostly easy slabs and fourth-class terrain with one bolt to secure the upper section. From the top anchor, a gentle grassy slope ascends into a broad alpine meadow—the perfect place to pause, catch your breath, and soak in the vastness of the Kootenays. For descent, climbers can rappel the route with two 60-meter ropes or follow the established Slabadabado trail.
Dino’s Gneiss Ride demands sturdy footwork, confident crack skills, and basic alpine navigation. It strikes a balance for climbers seeking meaningful adventure without extreme difficulty, especially well-suited for those familiar with the Valhallas’ quiet expanses. Prepare for changing weather, rock that ranges from solid to occasionally flaky, and an approach that requires stamina and good boots. Hydration is essential, as the climb offers minimal shade during mid-day and carries a steady alpine breeze that can alternately chill or refresh depending on season and timing.
This route represents a rewarding alpine trad outing, pairing the thrill of rock climbing with sweeping mountain views and a touch of solitude typical to the region. If you value a climb that mixes technical moves with open spaces, and the chance to test gear placements on varied cracks and slabs, Dino’s Gneiss Ride provides an honest alpine experience deep in British Columbia’s mountainous core.
While the rock is generally solid, some flakes can be loose and require testing. The anchors are mostly reliable but occasionally tucked under overlaps or small ledges—eye your placements carefully. Summers bring stable weather, but always be prepared for sudden shifts; the approach can become slippery when wet, and the alpine meadow at the top offers little shelter.
Approach the base via the gully southeast of Slabadabado, giving yourself about 20 minutes from the main trailhead.
Start early to avoid the midday sun on the slabs, as shade is limited on the route.
Double-check your small-sized cams for secure placements in cracks that can feel shallow or flared.
Plan weather carefully—afternoon storms are common in the Valhallas and can bring sudden chills.
Full rack from 0.2” to 3” cams, with doubles recommended in the 0.2” to 0.5” range. Bring 1 to 2 60m ropes for possible rappels. Protection includes a combination of bolts, pitons, and gear placements, especially on slabs and crack sections.
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