"Dihedral Crack is the only notable dihedral line in the Monitor Rock sector near Independence Pass, offering climbers four pitches of technical trad climbing with a mix of chimneying and delicate slab moves. Exposure and runouts challenge judgment, making it a distinctive test for trad enthusiasts."
Dihedral Crack, often called Red Dihedral, stands out as the singular dihedral climb in the Monitor Rock zone near Independence Pass, Colorado. This four-pitch trad route offers more than just vertical movement—it presents a rugged encounter with steep, exposed rock faces that challenge climbers to read the line and place protection with care. The climb faces north, leaning slightly to the left, creating a cool, shaded environment ideal for late spring to early fall ascents. As you approach, the massive rock face looms, carved by time and weather into a compelling series of cracks and bulges that dare you to test your skills.
The first pitch features a respectable 90-foot vertical push, ending at a two-rope rappel anchor. It’s a solid start but only the introduction. Beyond this point, the route stretches upward with a mixture of chimneying through the dihedral and delicate slab moves that demand precise footwork and nerve. Above the second pitch anchors, climbers must carefully traverse right onto a shrub-lined ledge, a subtle break in the terrain that offers a moment to recalibrate. From there, the route leaves the safety of cracks to ascend a runout slab, where protection becomes sparse, save for a dependable piton placed midway.
Continuing upward leads to a fixed cable anchor, a crucial resting point. Climbers are urged to thoroughly inspect this anchor before committing, as weather and time can compromise its integrity. From the cable, the route veers right, guiding climbers around a bulge protected by a small crack suited for a #1 Camalot. Overcoming this crux earns access to the final stretch, where the climb meets the top of the Trooper Traverse and ultimately the summit.
The rock quality is variable and the route shows signs of wear and occasional dirt accumulation, reminding climbers of the wilderness they’re navigating. Despite these challenges, the route offers a rich mix of technical skills: crack climbing, delicate slab moves, and a mental edge needed for the runout sections. It’s a route for climbers who appreciate a blend of straightforward 5.9 delicate movement paired with the adventurous unpredictability that comes with less-marked terrain.
Preparation here means packing a solid rack of traditional gear with a reliance on small to medium cams, pitons where possible, and double ropes to manage the rappel and longer pitches. Approach trails wind through forest terrain but remain clear-headed—getting caught off-guard by the weather or timing can turn good plans risky. Plan your ascent during stable weather windows, and bring enough water for a half-day climb, as the approach and descent require sustained energy and focus.
The surrounding Elks wilderness offers stark alpine views with vast forests pressing up against sheer granite faces. While the climb itself requires attention to the technical and mental game, the area rewards with its quiet spaces and distant horizon lines. Descending demands a careful two-rope rappel from the top anchors of the first pitch or continuing on to the Trooper Traverse for a more extended return route, depending on conditions and climber experience.
In all, Dihedral Crack feels like a local classic that tests your trad fundamentals with a modest but credible 5.9- rating. It invites climbers ready to manage exposure, runout concerns, and natural anchors to savor a genuine Colorado alpine trad experience. The interplay between technical movement and the mountain’s raw character makes this climb both a worthy objective and a vivid reminder of the mountain’s quiet demands.
Runout sections mean falls can be long and hazardous; approach placements with patience and always test fixed anchors before committing. Weather can rapidly shift in this alpine zone, so be prepared for cooler temperatures and potentially slippery rock on shaded climbs.
Inspect all fixed anchors before trusting your weight, as cable anchors may have loosened.
Prepare for a runout slab section above pitch two where protection becomes sparse.
Bring double ropes for efficient rappel and safer rope management on exposed pitches.
Start your climb mid-morning to ensure shaded conditions for the north-facing wall.
Standard trad rack covering small to medium cams is essential, with an emphasis on double ropes to facilitate a 2-rope rappel off the first pitch anchors and to protect runout slab sections. A bomber piton is present mid-slab, but climbers should bring extra pitons and nuts for additional protection. Inspect fixed anchors carefully before use, particularly cables that have aged over time.
Upload your photos of Dihedral Crack aka Red Dihedral and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.