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Dig Those Moves: A Sharp Trad Challenge on South Fork of St. Vrain

Lyons, Colorado United States
horizontal bands
bold protection
pine tree anchor
single pitch
small cams
nut tool recommended
early morning climb
midday heat
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dig Those Moves
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A demanding 5.8 R trad climb plunges up a face marked by horizontal bands and sparse protection near Lyons, Colorado. This single pitch offers a compact, focused test of gear skills with a bold feel and a pine-tree anchor top-out."

Dig Those Moves: A Sharp Trad Challenge on South Fork of St. Vrain

Dig Those Moves offers a focused taste of traditional climbing on the rugged face overlooking the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch route carves through distinct horizontal bands that break the vertical stone, each inviting careful gear placements before reaching a well-protected bolt. The climb demands a steady hand and an eye for subtle features, as protection opportunities appear in the form of small cams and nuts fitting narrow cracks up to 1.5 inches. The rock’s texture is rough and reliable, giving enough friction to confidently move through each sequence. Above the bolt, the lines open to a final stretch guarded by more horizontal breaks in the rock, leading to a large pine tree that marks the anchors—a natural rest point after the sustained effort below.

The approach to this climb rewards you with views of the surrounding South Fork canyon walls, where pine and scrub brush cling to the slopes and the air hums with the sound of the creek far below. This spot holds a quiet energy, as if the rock itself dares you to coax out the moves that link the bands of stone. The rating, 5.8 R, is no accident; the route features runout sections that call for conviction and precise footwork. It’s a climb that feels approachable yet demands respect for its protection gaps, making it ideal for climbers looking to bolster their trad confidence in a setting that balances exposure with tangible gear options.

To prepare, bring a rack tailored towards smaller cams to 1.5-inch sizes and plenty of nuts, plus a nut tool to excavate stubborn placements lodged in the horizontal seams. The route’s length of 70 feet carries you right to the anchor tree where slings are secured, setting you up for a clean descent. When the top is reached, safely rappel 60 to 70 feet back down to the base. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon grants cooler temperatures, as the rock bakes under Colorado's sun during mid-day hours.

Overall, the climb is a compact adventure that packs technical movement, strategic gear calls, and a satisfying retreat among classic Rockies landscapes. Whether you’re sharpening trad skills or chasing a solid pitch near Lyons, Dig Those Moves invites you to engage directly with the character of the stone—and the rhythm of the canyon beyond.

Climber Safety

Runout sections require vigilance—small cams must be carefully placed and tested due to the nature of horizontal seams. The pine tree anchor is solid but check slings thoroughly; descending by rappel demands controlled rappelling skills to avoid pendulum swings onto ledges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via clearly marked trails on the Platitudes; allow 30 minutes from parking.

Bring gloves for delicate gear cleaning in narrow seams.

Avoid climbing midday when the rock surface heats up under direct sun.

Double-check slings on the pine tree anchor for wear before rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating carries the added R (runout) designation for sections where protection is spaced and demands confident gear placements. The difficulty here is more mental than physical, as the moves themselves feel like solid 5.8 but the runout elevates the seriousness. Compared with other 5.8 trad routes in the Front Range, Dig Those Moves leans towards a more engaging protection challenge.

Gear Requirements

Small cams to 1.5 inches are essential, paired with nuts and a nut tool to clear gear slots hidden in horizontal bands. Protection hangs on careful placements; pack light but precise.

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Tags

horizontal bands
bold protection
pine tree anchor
single pitch
small cams
nut tool recommended
early morning climb
midday heat