Located within the rugged enclave of Los Dinamos just outside Mexico City, Diedro Negro stands as a compelling test for trad climbers drawn to complex, technical climbs. This single-pitch route runs approximately 100 feet through a striking sequence of chimney moves and hand-jammed dihedrals, demanding both strength and finesse. From the base, you navigate around massive boulders that anchor the approach, then find yourself drawn to a leftward traverse leading to the leftmost dihedral. Here, the climb shifts character, requiring chimney technique at the outset—your body pressing against the rock, feeling the cool, irregular surface pushing back.

Once past the chimney, the route rises directly upward, challenging you to overcome two distinct roofs that resist with tight spaces demanding precise hand jams. These jamming sections offer a tactile connection to the rock, rewarding careful placement with solid holds that feel made for your palms. At the roof edges, you experience the exposure subtly, the airy ledge inviting you to steady yourself before continuing.

Reaching the top of the dihedrals, the terrain opens into a broad, sloping ledge that slopes gently rightwards. This natural platform acts as a breather, a place to reload before tackling a compact headwall. This final crux marks the transition beyond Diedro Negro into the territory of the adjacent Las Gamuzas route and leads climbers to the established anchors.

Protection here is traditional, and the route responds best to a full rack up to #3 Camalot, with doubles recommended on all sizes to protect tricky placements that demand long runners. The rock quality is solid but requires attention in the chimney and roof sections, where finding and trusting your jams is key.

Getting to El Segundo Piso involves a short approach through Los Dinamos park, where shaded forest paths provide refuge from the city’s heat. The climb’s north-facing orientation means it remains pleasantly cool even in warmer months, and early spring or autumn offers ideal conditions to maximize grip without the cloud of sweat compromising your hold security. Hydration is crucial; water isn’t readily available on site, so plan accordingly. The route is best tackled mid-morning to avoid afternoon shadows and maximize daylight.

In summary, Diedro Negro weaves technical moves with tactical protection in an environment defined by bold rock formations and natural ledges. It’s a destination for climbers ready to engage their hands, feet, and mind, rewarded with a clear summit anchor and stunning views down into the wooded valley below.