Dick Van Dyke commands attention on the Northeast Face of Granite Basin, a compelling spot nestled within California’s Sierra Eastside at Sagehen Summit. This single-pitch sport route climbs a distinct vertical dike on the left side of the face, offering a climbing experience that balances straightforward technique with subtle challenges. The dike’s textured granite invites hands and feet to engage confidently, providing steady holds that create a rhythm for upward movement. After clipping the final bolt, climbers reach a decision point: push directly upward on the diminishing dike, facing a slightly tougher 10a section, or veer right to an easier 5.8 line that gently leads to the anchor. This choice adds a layer of strategy late in the climb, letting you tailor the finish to your comfort and skill level.

The setting enriches the climb with an austere wilderness feel. The granite face stands resolute against the sky, while light filters through sparse trees, casting shifting shadows that play across the rock. Granite Basin itself is a destination marked by open views and a sense of remoteness, yet accessible enough to encourage day trips. The anchor, defined by chain links that require threading for rappel, hints at self-sufficiency, encouraging climbers to mind their gear and technique on descent.

Climbers seeking a straightforward introduction to Sierra sport climbs will find Dick Van Dyke approachable but engaging. The 7-bolt line secures the route with well-placed protection, balancing confidence with the need for attentive movement. Technical touches like the narrowing dike hold your focus without overwhelming, rewarding steady footwork and measured hand placements. Granite Basin’s eastern positioning means climbs typically benefit from morning light, while afternoon shade offers relief during warmer months.

Preparation is key for a successful outing here. A sturdy pair of climbing shoes with reliable edging will serve best on the granite’s fine texture. Carrying extra webbing or quickdraws to manage descent safely is wise, especially given the anchor’s threading requirement. Approach trails are unassuming but can be steep and rocky in places—robust hiking shoes and a steady pace ensure your arrival is as smooth as your climb. Hydration remains critical even at this altitude, and early starts help avoid mid-day heat and maximize daylight for both the climb and return.

Dick Van Dyke captures the essence of a granite dike climb: a mix of tactile rock, a clear route line, and a satisfying technical challenge within reach for intermediate climbers. It invites you not only to ascend but to engage fully with the granite’s form, the mountain’s quiet presence, and the calculated decision-making that defines climbing’s rhythm. This route offers a compact adventure that’s as much about focused movement as it is about savoring the surrounding Sierra Eastside wilderness.