"Dick Van Dike is a bold, less conventional sport climb tucked at the eastern edge of Jug Dome. It combines runout bolts with an intriguing quartz-lined dihedral and a powerful crux, demanding technical skill and calm route-finding in Colorado’s Estes Park Valley."
Dick Van Dike offers an adventurous and somewhat off-the-beaten-path sport climb at Jug Dome, located deep in the Big Thompson Canyon of Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. Standing as the easternmost route on the rock, it challenges climbers with a unique rhythm of movement and spacing, weaving through rough terrain that rewards focus and patience. After a short scramble to reach the first clip, climbers face a sequence of bolts that are spaced widely apart, demanding confidence on runouts and calm composure beyond the typical sport climb environment.
The route meanders through a striking right-facing dihedral filled with large fist-sized and bigger quartz crystals, though caution is necessary as some of these hold questionable solidity. This creates an engaging sensory experience: the coarse green intrusion rock feels rough beneath fingertips, while the quartz crystals jut aggressively, almost daring climbers to use them but reminding them to stay wary. Once past the quartz-lined section, a short but powerful headwall presents the crux, finishing this technical pitch with a move that tests precision and strength.
The path then follows the "Green Mile," a sweeping feature of fine-grained green intrusion rock that demands steady technique and body positioning. Despite the difficulty rating, the climbing here hovers around 5.7, but it is the spacing of the bolts and the exposed nature of some clips that elevate the mental game. This isn’t a climb for those only familiar with tightly bolted, closely spaced sport routes; leaders must be comfortable running it out with a controlled mindset.
Jug Dome itself sits within a rugged, relatively quiet corner of Big Thompson Canyon, providing a wild experience punctuated by distant canyon sounds and the occasional rustle of forest wildlife. The approach is a straightforward scramble but not without loose sections, emphasizing sturdy footwear and attention to footing. Weather in Estes Park Valley can shift quickly, so climbers should monitor conditions and plan for hydration, sun protection, and suitable layers.
Gear-wise, bring 14 to 16 quickdraws to navigate the long distances between bolts comfortably, plus slings or anchors for the belay station. The occasional hidden clip reinforces the need for precise route-finding once on the rock. Local climbers note a potential variation—climbing the direct headwall connection to the right, avoiding the dihedral traverse—which, if bolted, could offer a more modern and compact option rated near 10a/b.
In summary, Dick Van Dike stands as a somewhat raw and exposed sport climb that merges the excitement of green intrusion rock with a test of route-reading and composure under runouts. It’s a compelling choice for experienced leaders ready to push beyond traditional sport climbing comfort zones, all while soaking in the expansive views and solitude of Big Thompson Canyon.
The quartz crystals lining parts of the dihedral vary in solidity, so avoid trusting them fully for holds or protection. Bolt spacing can lead to long falls; leaders must be confident with runouts and the risk of swing falls. Loose rock near the approach calls for caution and good footwear.
Scramble carefully to the start; loose rock can make footing tricky.
Bring plenty of quickdraws—clips are spaced far apart and some are hidden until close.
Be ready for runouts; this route suits climbers comfortable leading with moderate spacing.
Check weather forecasts; conditions in Big Thompson Canyon can change rapidly.
Prepare with 14-16 quickdraws to handle the longer clip distances and anchors at the top. The route features widely spaced bolts and some that are hard to spot until right upon them, making gear management and careful clipping essential.
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