Diagonal Right stands as a compact yet compelling trad climb within the Sugarloaf Area of Midway Rock, a slice of California’s rugged High Sierra climbing scene. This route is a straightforward 5.9 that challenges climbers with a series of technical moves along a right-facing arching crack, demanding precise technique without overwhelming length or complexity. The climb begins with an undercling that leads into a short, flaring pod, where body positioning becomes crucial. From here, a reachy move accesses a perfect hand jam at the narrowing pod’s top—this sequence offers a satisfying test of reach and finesse. Above, the climbing transitions to a series of hand jams and easier holds, allowing a steady pull to the summit of this single-pitch line.

Located along Highway 50 near Lake Tahoe, Midway Rock is an accessible yet wild-feeling area favored by trad enthusiasts. The landscape around evokes the high Sierra’s granite character—solid and textured with a warm tonal palette, contrasting with the cool blue sky and pine-scented air. Being one pitch and moderately rated, Diagonal Right provides an excellent introduction to hand jam techniques and crack climbing on sandstone-like granite, making it suited for climbers sharpening their trad skills or seeking a crisp afternoon outing.

Protection here relies on gear placements up to 3 inches, with natural pro anchors throughout the crack features. The placements are generally straightforward but require a confident eye for good contacts and subtle constrictions inside the crack. The approach to Midway Rock is a short, well-trodden trail from the parking area off Highway 50, involving a 10-15 minute hike characterized by gentle ups and downs over pine-needle-strewn ground and scattered granitic slabs.

Timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon will afford direct sunlight on the wall, warming the granite and improving friction without overheating, especially on warmer days. Due to its exposure and height, the route offers a satisfying sense of exposure without excessive risk, making it ideal for climbers building trad experience. After topping out, a straightforward walk-off leads back to the base, ensuring a smooth transition from climb to descent.

Local climbers recommend sticky rubber shoes for the flare pod moves and packing a light rack focused on small to medium cams, prioritizing confident placements over quantity. Water, layered clothing, and awareness of sudden weather changes common to the Sierra mountain environment round out the essentials. Whether you arrive to fine-tune hand jams or to enjoy the moderate challenge in a spectacular High Sierra setting, Diagonal Right offers a clean, engaging climb that feels simultaneously adventurous and approachable.