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Diagonal Finger Crack

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad climbing
finger crack
short pitch
southwest facing
small cams
must clip small stoppers
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Diagonal Finger Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Diagonal Finger Crack is a brief but technical trad climb in Boulder’s Flatirons. This southwest-facing crack demands precise finger jams and small gear placements, offering a focused challenge just south of the summit tower."

Diagonal Finger Crack

Diagonal Finger Crack offers a compact but rewarding test of finger strength and technique on the Flatirons' rugged sandstone faces near Boulder, Colorado. Tucked into a southwest-facing alcove just south of the summit tower, this short, sharp line slices diagonally rightward from its base, demanding precise hand jams and delicate footwork along its thin, mostly vertical holds. The wall’s sandstone sharpens every move, and the crack itself feels alive, urging climbers to commit as they ascend. Despite its brevity—clocking in at less than 50 feet—this route provides a focused dose of technical climbing in a quiet corner away from the busier neighboring cracks.

Though the approach is straightforward, reaching the alcove requires a brief walk south from the well-known Green Thumb outlook, where the classic Green Crack anchors the scene at 5.8+. Diagonal Finger Crack lies just a few feet to the right, carving a diagonal path that slightly shifts your climbing angle and rhythm. Gear placements here lean toward smaller cams and stoppers, ideal for those with a well-stocked rack of thin protection. This precision gear placement makes every move feel purposeful and slightly adventurous, as secure hardware is earned rather than taken for granted.

The climb’s southwest exposure means afternoon sun can warm the rock, inviting climbers to schedule attempts in the cooler morning or late afternoon hours to avoid overheating. Once at the top, a tactical left move leads to a convenient rappel off a small tree, making descent quick and safe. This feature rounds out the experience by rewarding both your technical effort on the route and your awareness on the exit.

For climbers looking to expand their Flatirons collection with a modest challenge, Diagonal Finger Crack invites focus and finesse. Its short length keeps the climb accessible to those seeking a sharp session of crack climbing without the endurance demands of a longer pitch. The surrounding area combines serene views of Boulder’s foothills and the playful chatter of the wind, adding a sensory layer to the physical experience.

In preparation, bring a rack with an emphasis on thinner cams and small stoppers, keep hydration handy, and wear shoes with snug toe profiles to match the narrow crack. Timing your climb to catch cooler temperatures can make a noticeable difference, as the sandstone’s warmth impacts friction and grip. Parking and approach routes are straightforward from the Green Thumb access trail, keeping your day efficient and focused entirely on the rock.

Diagonal Finger Crack is a concise but rewarding taste of the Flatirons' traditional climbing flavor—direct, demanding, and subtly engaging. Whether you’re polishing crack techniques or simply adding a new line to your tick list, this route offers an authentic slice of Colorado’s climbing scene worth the brief detour.

Climber Safety

Thin gear placements dominate this climb, so double check each cam and stopper for solid placements. The descent rappel anchors from a small tree; inspect before trusting and avoid loose debris on the ledge.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Green Thumb trail and walk 50 feet south to find the alcove.

Attempt this climb during cooler morning or late afternoon hours to avoid heated rock.

Wear climbing shoes with tight toe fit for optimal jam security in the narrow crack.

Descend by rappelling off a small tree—bring a 60m rope and anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Diagonal Finger Crack is straightforward but not forgiving. The short length may underrate the sustained finger jams and precise footwork required. The grade feels accurate with a slight crux where the crack angles diagonally, adding a technical twist. Similar in commitment to other Flatirons trad climbs around 5.9 but without prolonged endurance demands.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on small cams and stoppers to protect the thin crack placements. Avoid larger pro, as the line favors narrow gear.

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Tags

trad climbing
finger crack
short pitch
southwest facing
small cams
must clip small stoppers