Adventure Collective

Diabla: A Technical Traverse on Safari Wall's Redwood Coast

Trinity, California United States
traverse
bolt protected
short route
technical
redwood coast
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Diabla
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Diabla carves a technical traverse along the striking Safari Wall, merging two established climbs into a continuous sequence of precise moves. This fully bolted sport route offers a compact yet engaging test of balance and route-finding, set amid the rugged northern California redwoods."

Diabla: A Technical Traverse on Safari Wall's Redwood Coast

Diabla offers a unique sporting experience on California’s Redwood Coast, presenting a route that challenges both your footwork and route reading on the striking Safari Wall. Beginning on the first three bolts of La Nina, this line quickly diverges to the right, compelling climbers to traverse along a distinct flake that demands steady balance and precise movement. The rock here feels alive beneath your fingertips, a rough yet reliable grip as the route sends you rightward across the wall’s textured face.

At the traverse's peak, a signature bolt with a matte black hanger invites the clip, signaling the transition from leftward climbs to uncharted rightward passage. From this anchor, the climb angles slightly up and right to merge seamlessly into the final four bolts of El Jefe. While the length is modest at 70 feet, every move is measured and purposeful, requiring not only strength but strategic use of a long runner to comfortably negotiate the bolt sequence—particularly the gap bridging La Nina and El Jefe’s anchors.

This fully bolted moderate sport climb is a solid choice for those who prefer relying on bolts over traditional gear placements. Ideal for climbers seeking a technical traverse with limited protection complexity, Diabla avoids the gear testing of trad routes and offers a focused challenge on a frequently overlooked line. The route’s location on Safari Wall gives it a rugged coastal vibe, with fresh sea air cutting through the towering redwoods and a subtle hint of ocean chill on the breeze.

Expect solid rap anchors at the top for a clean descent. Climbing here benefits from morning shade and afternoon sun, making timing critical to avoid slippery lichen on the traversing flake. Given the short length and continuous bolt protection, it’s a straightforward push in an area renowned for its more committed trad climbs. This makes Diabla a practical option for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing technique within a dramatic northern California climbing venue.

Climber Safety

While fully bolted, the traverse section demands careful foot placement on exposed edges. Moisture from coastal fog can make the flake slippery, so avoid climbing immediately after rain or heavy dew. Always double-check your anchor and quickdraw placements to prevent rope drag complications on the traversing bolt.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Bring a set of extendable quickdraws to manage rope drag during the traverse.

Plan to climb during morning hours to benefit from cooler air and less sun on the rock.

Prepare for a short, technical route rather than a sustained endurance climb.

Use your climbing shoes' edge effectively on the traversing flake—it requires precision.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Diabla sits at the moderate end of the sport climbing scale, but the traverse nature of the route introduces a stiffer challenge in footwork and balance than a straight vertical climb of similar grade. The route’s crux emerges on the rightward flake where precise body positioning is essential, making the grade feel lively rather than soft.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by eight bolts and reliable rap anchors. Long runners or extendable quickdraws come in handy to reduce rope drag, especially when clipping the bolt bridging La Nina and El Jefe.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Diabla and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

traverse
bolt protected
short route
technical
redwood coast