"Devil's Corner is a focused trad climb in Colorado's Devil's Gate sector, offering sustained crack and corner moves capped by a distinct chockstone roof. Ideal for those aiming to hone crack techniques with solid natural protection and manageable exposure."
Devil's Corner offers a sharp, focused trad climb that demands both technique and presence of mind on Colorado’s South Platte. Starting just a few feet left of the more frequented Devil's Gate 2, this route grants a direct path into a narrow corner where stem and jam moves dictate the rhythm. The first section requires clipping the initial two bolts on Devil’s Gate 2 — optional but helpful — before committing fully to natural protection that holds confidently through the sustained crack and corner climbing.
The climb’s standout feature is a subtle, key roof formed by a protruding chockstone. Here, physical effort meets mental strategy as you lever over this bulge, pushing your weight outward before continuing upward. The rock’s texture gives you solid handholds and securely textured jams, where placements from fractional to mid-sized cams find reliable home with well-spaced gear opportunities.
Above the crux, the corner opens into a wider scraper chimney with full protection opportunities tucked behind you. The chimney section feels spacious after the tight stem moves, yet it demands steady footwork and constant attention to body positioning to avoid slipping on the smooth rock surfaces. The top-out leads to an exposed ledge, offering a panoramic break with views that remind you why this sector draws climbers willing to test their crack skills and physical intuition.
Approaching Devil’s Corner, the terrain is inviting—a short walk from the parking area near Devil’s Gate and a gentle hike leads you to the base. The granite’s exposed faces glisten under the sun, revealing solid stone with zones of lichen and moss that temporarily soften the harshness of vertical granite. Expect an approach time of about 15 minutes through forested patches that hum softly with bird calls and the occasional rustle of small wildlife.
For gear, a double rack ranging from micro cams (BD 0.5) up to size 2 will cover the protection needs comfortably, with a #3 cam ideal for the anchor build. The route rewards those who come prepared with precise placements and an understanding of crack climbing mechanics—strap on sticky-soled shoes with aggressive edging capabilities and bring a generous supply of chalk to handle the slightly abrasive granite texture.
The climb’s 90-foot length compresses action into one essential pitch, making it a perfect single-pitch adventure that balances technical moves with a punch of exposure. Although rated 5.9, the grade carries a solid reputation for feeling just right—not soft, not overly stiff—with the crux roof move as a defining test. Those familiar with other climbs in Devil’s Gate will recognize this as a slightly bolder alternative with rewarding gear placements and a satisfying finish above the tree line.
Timing your ascent is key: climbing Devil’s Corner mid-morning to early afternoon offers prime sun exposure on the face, warming the rock nicely during cooler months. In summer, early starts can help avoid heat buildup, especially when paired with a breeze filtering through the nearby Colorado pine forests. The descent consists of a straightforward walk off to the base—no technical rappels needed—letting climbers savor the climb without added stress on the way down.
In summary, Devil’s Corner is a confident trad route that combines direct, engaging moves with dependable protection and undeniably Colorado scenery. It’s perfect for climbers seeking to sharpen crack skills and experience a genuine granite challenge just a short drive from Denver.
Watch for slippery spots on the scraper chimney near the top-out; maintain steady foot placement and place solid protection early, especially if the rock feels damp from morning dew or rain. The approach remains straightforward but keep an eye on loose debris near the base.
Clip the first two bolts from Devil’s Gate 2 for an easier start, or place solid pro a few feet left if you prefer a cleaner ascent.
Sticky rubber shoes with strong edging improve foothold security on narrow crack and scraper chimney sections.
Bring extra chalk for the slightly abrasive granite, especially near the roof where hand traction is critical.
Aim to climb mid-morning in spring and fall to catch warm sun on the rock while avoiding afternoon heat.
Doubles from BD 0.5 to 2 cover most of the route’s protection needs, with a #3 cam recommended for building a secure anchor at the top. Gear placements are regular through the corner and chimney, emphasizing solid jam and stem techniques.
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