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Devil Man Trad Climb at Box Springs Mountain Park

Riverside, California United States
face climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
walk-off descent
moderate trad
bolted anchor
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Devil Man
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Devil Man is a single-pitch trad climb that weaves up distinct zig-zag cracks on Box Springs Mountain’s Main Wall Left. It offers a solid 5.8 challenge with reliable gear and a convenient walk-off descent, making it perfect for trad climbers seeking a focused, accessible route."

Devil Man Trad Climb at Box Springs Mountain Park

Set against the rugged backdrop of Box Springs Mountain Park, Devil Man offers an engaging single-pitch trad route that carves a path along the distinct zig-zag cracks of the Main Wall Left. This climb presents a balanced blend of face holds and crack climbing, inviting you to feel the interplay between solid rock and your gear as you ascend. The route measures a concise 25 feet but delivers a satisfying challenge on 5.8 terrain, making it approachable for those stepping into trad climbing or looking for a quick, focused push.

The wall’s texture is firm and offers reliable protection placements up to 3 inches, giving climbers some peace of mind as fingers navigate the jagged breaks. Unlike busier nearby options, Devil Man grants a brief haven for your fingertips, sparing them from the wear of overused holds. This route is perfect for a warm-up or a faster session, especially if you find yourself without a full rack — the option to top-rope here turns it into a convenient training ground.

Box Springs Mountain Park itself anchors this climb within a landscape marked by natural grit and accessible terrain. The approach trail is straightforward, cutting through typical Southern California chaparral with steady elevation. Expect dry conditions underfoot, firm footholds, and open views that reward you after the short hike in. The sun moves across the face throughout the day, so morning or late afternoon sessions tend to offer more comfortable temperatures. Gear up with a standard trad rack emphasizing cams sized up to three inches, a helmet for loose blocks common in the area, and shoes with solid edging to handle the mixed climbing style.

When you reach the top, a bolted anchor awaits, making lowering down simple and secure. The descent involves a walk-off to the right, allowing a swift exit without any complex downclimbing or rappels. This access adds a practical edge, especially if you plan multiple laps or want to keep runs efficient.

For local climbers and visitors alike, Devil Man stands out as an unpretentious, reliable climb. It’s neither an all-day ordeal nor a fight to find protection—just a straightforward route where strategy and steady movement lock hands. Whether you’re brushing up on gear placements or searching for a manageable step into trad climbing within the Inland Empire, this route delivers utility layered with a sharp sense of place. The rock’s personality, paired with its measured challenge, embodies an inviting call to get out, climb smart, and enjoy a stretch of rock that respects your time and ambition alike.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of loose rock near the base and along the approach trail. Always wear a helmet and check gear placements carefully as some edges may be sharp but solid.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Morning or late afternoon climbs offer cooler wall temperatures.

Wear a helmet as loose blocks are common near the base.

Bring a rack focused on cams from small to 3-inch sizes.

The walk-off descent to the right is straightforward but watch footing on loose gravel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Devil Man strikes a middle ground—accessible for less experienced trad climbers but with enough nuance to remain engaging. The protection is solid, and the move quality feels true to the grade without surprise cruxes, making it a dependable benchmark in the Inland Empire area.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches recommended; bolted anchor at the top for easy lowering.

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Tags

face climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
walk-off descent
moderate trad
bolted anchor