Deviate on The Old Woman’s East Face in Joshua Tree National Park offers a compact punch of trad climbing that demands focus and finesse. The route starts with a clip just below a low bolt, a subtle reminder that commitment kicks in early. From there, you crank over a short but challenging overhang—a move that tests reach and technique, especially for shorter climbers. Once past this initial hurdle, the climb shifts right and up, navigating an infamous section of slick smears that challenge your footwork and nerve. These polished slabs, worn smooth by weather and use, feel almost frictionless, daring climbers to trust every subtle edge and smear.

After overcoming this crux, the terrain eases into a lower angle chimney where protection becomes more straightforward, letting you breathe easier while placing a light rack of small cams and nuts. A bolted belay anchors this single-pitch climb, standing ready with two solid 3/8 bolts. For those wanting to extend their adventure, long slings facilitate a link to the playful roof of the Geronimo route above, adding length and variety.

While Deviate may not leave a lasting impression of grandeur or exposure, it offers a rare taste of technical friction climbing amidst the classic desert sandstone and scrub of Hidden Valley Campground. Climbers should come prepared for the slick rock texture and the mental game it demands. Timing your climb for cooler parts of the day helps, as the heat can further soften the already slippery surfaces.

Gear recommendations include a light rack focused on smaller sized protection and enough slings if you plan to link to Geronimo. The approach itself is short and straightforward, providing quick access from established trails in Joshua Tree. This climb’s blend of technical smear work and moderate chimney sections makes it a worthy challenge for adventurous trad climbers looking to test precision and balance in one of California’s iconic climbing parks.