"Deviant's Games stands as a gritty alternative to the famous Great Drain, challenging climbers with a blend of crack and delicate face climbing across five varied pitches. Less traveled and a touch dusty, this route pushes skill and commitment on Squamish’s rugged granite, rewarding those who seek a purer, earned ascent."
Deviant's Games offers climbers an adventurous alternative route to the popular Great Drain on Slhanay Mountain, setting the stage for a bold series of pitches amid Squamish’s rugged granite landscape. This climb stretches approximately 400 feet over five pitches, carving an efficient path through sharp corners, delicate face climbing, and bold slab moves that demand focus and commitment. Far quieter than its renowned neighbors, Deviant's Games carries the weight of infrequent traffic, leaving sections dusty but no less intriguing for climbers who seek a rawer experience off the beaten path.
The route kicks off with a solid 35-meter first pitch following the Great Drain corner, an inviting 5.7 crack that sets a steady rhythm while offering secure jams and holds. Here, climbers find themselves in direct contact with the mountain’s coarse granite, feeling the textured rock bite against fingers as they ascend. Above, the second pitch shifts attention to face climbing — a 30 to 40-meter stretch graded at 10a/b — that branches right from the main chimney. This section zigzags, weaving a line of subtle cracks and holds. Caution is essential: stray too far right, and you’ll land on the neighboring route, introducing unexpected bolts and terrain.
For those willing to push into the third pitch, the character intensifies with a series of smaller hand cracks and a blunt arete punctuated by five old bolts. This 10c pitch tests both mental control and physical dexterity as climbers face run-out sections where protection feels sparse. Moves require firm grips on uncertain holds, daring climbers to trust their skills and commit fully. A delicate balance of precision and bravery defines this segment, contrasting with the more straightforward pitches below.
Beyond this, the climb unfolds into pitches that link into the Great Drain’s traverse and the Great Game anchors, offering extended options for those eager to deepen their commitment. The fourth pitch is notable for its mix of slab climbing and easier cracks, blending technical interest with manageable moves rated around 5.7 to 10c depending on variation. This section unfolds across 60 meters, following ramps and slabs that expose the granite in varying textures and angles.
Gear requirements call for a standard rack extending to 3 inches, with doubles advisable for longer pitches and smaller cams to handle the diverse crack sizes encountered. Bringing solid protection is critical, as some pitches hover on the edge of protection comfort, especially near the crux moves.
Approaching Deviant’s Games involves a moderate trek through Squamish’s renowned access routes. The trailhead, near the Sea to Sky Highway, leads climbers through a mix of forested undergrowth and open rock slabs to reach the base, typically a 30- to 45-minute hike depending on pace. The climb’s north-facing orientation provides relief from intense sun during summer mornings and prolongs shade into the afternoon, ideal for early or late climbs to avoid heat.
Responsibility on this route involves awareness of loose rock and sections of limited traffic that contribute to dust and reduced friction. Climbers should be prepared for variable conditions, including cooler temperatures in shaded sections and the possibility of wet spots after rain. A solid headlamp isn't required but can be useful for early starts or late descents, which involve rappel from bolted stations with clear anchors.
Deviant’s Games rewards those who venture beyond the popular classics, offering a thought-provoking challenge with a mix of crack and face climbing that demands versatility. While it may lack the polished classics’ flash, it compensates with a gritty, earnest character that promises an honest test of skills and determination. Whether working through the sharp corners or managing committing slab moves, this route presents a compelling opportunity for climbers looking for a strong presence of adventure and active engagement with Squamish’s mountainous personality.
Sections of limited traffic have led to accumulation of dirt and dust, reducing friction on slabs and some holds. The third pitch crux involves run-out moves on uncertain holds—ensure your rack is complete and placements are solid before committing. Approach trails can be slippery after rain; plan accordingly.
Start early in the day to avoid warming slabs and find shade on the north-facing wall.
Watch your footing on the dusty and less trafficked sections; rock can be slippery.
Be cautious on pitch three’s run-out crux—trust your placements and stay composed.
The approach hike takes 30 to 45 minutes; bring water and appropriate footwear for forest trails.
A standard traditional rack to 3 inches works here, with doubles recommended for longer pitches and extras in small cams to protect delicate crack sequences. Expect some run-out sections and limited fixed gear, so a well-rounded pro set is essential for safety and confidence.
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