"Deuceldike slices a bold path up Half Dome’s southwest face, blending sparse protection with varied granite features. This five-pitch trad climb challenges gear placement skills and offers a compelling alternative to busier routes in Yosemite Valley."
Deuceldike offers a compelling trad climb on the iconic southwest face of Half Dome, carving a distinct route through the heart of Yosemite Valley. This five-pitch adventure stitches together varied terrain—from sparse protections on steep slabs to delicate dike climbing—providing a genuine test for climbers comfortable with moderate risk and route-finding on classical granite.
The climb begins with a modest 5.6-5.8 section where protection is spread thin and demands a confident approach to gear placements. Early on, a rusty pin signals a move left onto a thin, sloping dike that requires steady footwork to maintain balance. As you ascend, the granite’s texture shifts; the sea of granite undulations offers a breather, accentuating the route’s rhythm on pitch two. Here, natural ledges with solid gear placements invite pauses to appreciate the surrounding valley walls, with occasional bits of sun filtering through the early morning light.
Pitch three presents the crux: an engaging, vertical dike rated 5.9 R that challenges technical skill and mental composure. This section is 'tasty'—demanding precise hand jams and controlled foot placement to thread the needle between limited protection. Beyond the crux, a diagonal dike drifts upward toward the fourth belay at the famous Snake Dike area, where bolts become a necessary anchor given the limited natural pro. The final scramble along the Snake Hike path is a familiar finish for many Yosemite climbers, easing the descent with a gentle slope amid granite waves.
Given the sparse protection—only a couple of bolts per pitch, supplemented by small to medium cams—this route leans more on a seasoned climber's ability to trust gear placements and read the rock. The R rating underscores the importance of cautious movement and preparedness for falls where pro is limited. Climbers should bring smaller cams up to #2 and anticipate some long runouts, especially on the first two pitches.
Access is straightforward within Yosemite National Park, but the approach demands focus amid often busy trailheads and fleeting shade. Timing your climb for early morning can keep you ahead of crowds and allow cooler rock conditions, particularly important during warmer months. Given the length of pitches and rope stretch concerns, a 70-meter rope works but requires tactical belay placements along Snake Dike.
Experienced climbers looking for a less-traveled line on one of Yosemite's most famous walls will find Deuceldike rewards with solitude and classic granite climbing. Keep your gear light but precise, your senses sharp, and take time to absorb the austere beauty around you—the valley’s granite cliffs seeming to breathe with history and challenge in every crack and corner.
Sparse natural protection combined with a few bolts means falls can be serious; carefully assess each gear placement on the lower pitches and take extra caution around runout sections. Rusty pins and old bolts require visual inspection prior to trusting anchors.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and crowds on Half Dome's face.
Bring a 70-meter rope and plan belays carefully; rope stretch is significant.
Focus on precise gear placements, especially on the initial pitches with sparse pro.
Be prepared for runouts and practice controlled, confident climbing on runout dikes.
Expect sparse protection on the first two pitches, primarily small to medium cams (#2 and smaller) complemented by two bolts per pitch. The upper pitches lean on a couple of bolts, especially near belay stations, due to long runouts and rope length considerations.
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