HomeClimbingDeserted Cities of the Heart

Deserted Cities of the Heart

Boulder, Colorado USA
mantel crux
sport climb
two pitches
northwest aspect
small cams
bolted route
Flatirons
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Deserted Cities of the Heart
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deserted Cities of the Heart challenges you with a two-pitch sport climb featuring a committing mantel crux and a broad summit ledge on Boulder’s Goose. This route balances technical moves with accessible protection, delivering a memorable outing close to town."

Deserted Cities of the Heart

Carved into the northwestern face of the Goose, 'Deserted Cities of the Heart' offers climbers a two-pitch sport route that blends technical movement with a rewarding summit view only Boulder’s Flatirons can deliver. The approach to the base guides you through rocky terrain peppered with juniper and pines, where the crisp Colorado air carries faint echoes of the South Flatirons’ rugged character. Pitch one ascends steadily, navigating solid bolted lines up to a spacious ledge that briefly lets you catch your breath while surveying the crisp alpine sky. But it’s pitch two where the route tests your composure: a committing mantel over a small roof demands attention and technique before easing into a more relaxed climb toward the summit’s edge.

The rock here feels reliable, but the mantle crux requires focus and a careful foot placement that can unsettle even experienced climbers if they rush it. Small cams, especially a #2 Friend, can prove valuable along this pitch, providing added security beyond the bolts. As you top out, the expansive views reward the exertion with wide stretches of Boulder and the foothills.

The descent calls for a calculated rappelling sequence: after completing the summit, you traverse right—keeping the rock face to your left—to link into an adjacent route’s rappel anchors. A single 50-meter rope does the job, dropping you back to pitch one’s ledge. From there, a downclimb leftward along the ledge brings you back to solid footing on the approach trail.

This route’s northwestern aspect means morning light gently illuminates the face, warming chilly Boulder mornings and making spring and fall ideal seasons to climb. Summer afternoons can quickly turn hot, so an early start is advised. The Goose’s proximity to Boulder makes it an accessible escape with just enough challenge to keep seasoned climbers engaged, while its moderate grade offers solid grounding for sport climbers looking to sharpen their technique on textured rock and technical manteling moves.

Prepare for rapidly shifting weather common in the Colorado high country and bring plenty of water. Footwear with reliable edging and sensitivity will help, especially on the mantle crux. Given the route’s exposed sections, a helmet is essential to protect against occasional loose flakes. With attention to detail and a measured pace, 'Deserted Cities of the Heart' is a compelling route that combines exposure, practical protection, and a uniquely rewarding finish on the Goose’s northwestern flank.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes around the ledges and remain attentive during the rappel traverse to avoid slips. The mantle crux requires careful execution to prevent falls onto the ledge below.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize morning light on the northwest face.

Carry a 50m rope for the rappel setup.

Wear shoes with sensitive edging to handle the mantel move effectively.

Be cautious around loose rock near ledges and while downclimbing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this route feels true to its grade but the mantle over the small roof on pitch two raises the intensity briefly, offering a technical crux that demands precise balance and footwork. Compared to other routes on the Goose, it provides a firm challenge without venturing into harder grades.

Gear Requirements

Bring standard sport climbing rack with quickdraws plus small cams; a #2 Friend can protect tricky sections on pitch two beyond the bolts.

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Tags

mantel crux
sport climb
two pitches
northwest aspect
small cams
bolted route
Flatirons