"A compact two-pitch sport route in Bishop’s Little Egypt area, this climb challenges with delicate edges and smears on textured granite. Perfect for climbers eager for precise footwork and a quiet Sierra slab experience."
Tucked into the rugged contours of Mussypotamia Right within the Little Egypt sector of California’s Sierra Eastside, "Delicious, Delicious Oh How Boring" offers a no-nonsense, compact climbing experience. This two-pitch sport route presents a straightforward yet engaging challenge for climbers looking to test their footwork and precision on thin edges and delicate smears. The granite face is exacting—pitch one begins with a clipped ladder of two or three bolts that eases you onto the main slab. From there, it’s a measured ascent on a seam that demands steady balance and careful movements to reach a comfortable stance equipped with a bolted anchor.
The second pitch is an intriguing unfinished project, partially bolted with three fixed points but not yet fully climbed. This segment invites climbers who relish exploration and creativity on the wall, offering an opportunity to engage with a raw challenge in a quiet pocket of the Sierra Nevada climbing scene.
Approaching the wall involves a short walk along well-marked trails through sparse, dry brush typical of the Eastern Sierra’s transition zone. Although the route is relatively short at just 90 feet, the technical demands compress the climbing into rewarding, focused bursts. The rock’s texture is rough yet polished in spots, providing enough friction to trust your smears, but requiring thoughtful gear placement and movement.
Protection on the climb is straightforward: the route is fully bolted with solid anchors, making it an attractive option for climbers seeking sport lines without the hassle of traditional gear. The quality of bolts aligns well with expectations for this area, ensuring safety without compromising the purity of the effort.
Given the wall faces mostly northeast, morning sessions offer the best light and cooler temperatures, particularly favorable during the Sierra’s hotter months. Afternoon sun heats the slab considerably, so timing your climb earlier can enhance comfort and grip. The descent is simple — a walk off from the top, tracing a gentle slope back toward the trailhead without the need for rappels.
With a 5.10a rating, this route strikes a balance between accessibility and challenge. Those familiar with classic Sierra sport routes will find the grade approachable but with a pocket of sustained moves that sharpen technique and mental focus. While the name whispers boredom, the climbing itself defies it, offering a concentrated experience emphasizing finesse.
In summary, "Delicious, Delicious Oh How Boring" quietly beckons climbers who appreciate concise routes with strong technical demands and reliable protection. Its location within the drier, less crowded eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada ensures a peaceful atmosphere, inviting focused, mindful ascents amid stark natural beauty.
While bolts are solid and well-placed, the slab terrain can feel exposed due to its smoothness—careful foot placement is essential. The unfinished second pitch may require added caution as it's not fully established; confirm bolt security before leading.
Arrive early to climb in the cool morning light on the northeast-facing slab.
Wear shoes with good edging ability due to thin holds and delicate smears.
Bring a 60-meter rope for comfortable pitches and safe descent.
Check local conditions for temperature swings typical of the Sierra Eastside.
Fully bolted with two to three bolts on pitch one leading to a bolted anchor. Pitch two is a partially bolted project with three bolts already placed.
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