"Deeze Nuts is a demanding single-pitch trad climb on Ontario’s Claghorn Long Wall. Featuring sustained moves up a vertical face, a tricky roof exit, and a crack system protecting up to 1 inch, it challenges climbers with both physical and mental tests amid uncertain rock conditions near the top."
Deeze Nuts unfolds along a challenging single-pitch face that demands attention from start to finish. Set within the gritty texture of Claghorn Long Wall, this trad climb stretches a sustained vertical terrain before veering into a corner. The route culminates with a dynamic move out a roof, leading climbers along a crack system that pushes right to the summit. Here, the rock demands respect; sharp edges and tricky hand jams require steady technique and commitment.
The crack widens to accommodate gear placements up to 1 inch, providing essential protection on a pitch where falls could have consequences. Early locks-in are bolted, but as you progress, the protection shifts to traditional nuts and cams. It’s a mental game as much as a physical one—balancing gear placements and movement while reading the rock’s demanding features.
Take note: the top-blocks above the climb are unstable. Climbers must exercise extreme caution approaching the upper section where loose blocks have reportedly displaced. These blocks haven’t yet fallen but represent a serious hazard; falling rock stones have even severed ropes in the past. This warning underscores the route’s raw and wild character—a reminder that nature here still writes the rules.
Approaching the climb leads through classic Ontario rock scenery—exposed faces, patches of lichen, and scrubby vegetation that part to reveal the vertical granite wall. The nearby forest edges hiss with wildlife and rustling winds, setting a stark contrast to the intense focus required by the climb itself. The latitude and longitude place this granite gem just off beaten paths, adding an element of solitude and adventure.
Gear-wise, expect a mixed start with bolts for initial clipping, transitioning soon into hands-on, traditional placements. A rack well stocked with cams up to 1 inch and a variety of nuts will keep you secure. The style rewards methodical climbing with a practical mindset: clean your placements, gauge your reach, and prepare for the roof section’s physical demands.
Timing your ascent is essential. Aim for spring to early fall when the rock is dry, temperatures moderate, and daylight at its longest. Midday sun will hit parts of the wall but the roof section offers brief shade, providing natural relief on warmer days.
Descent leads back down from the top via a cautious walk-off route. The uncertain nature of the top blocks means extra vigilance when letting go of the climb and heading down. Carry a helmet at all times—rockfall risk isn’t theoretical here but a known factor.
Local wisdom advises bringing sturdy footwear and hydration as the approach can be a brisk hike through rocky and occasionally slippery terrain. Early starts beat afternoon winds that pick up across the exposed ledges.
Deeze Nuts offers a ground-level encounter with Ontario’s raw granite and the unforgiving elements around it. This pitch shifts between technical demands and mental grit, rewarding climbers who respect their limits and honor the mountain’s silent warnings. It’s a route that calls both to the excited trad climber looking to push into the mid 5.10s and those who appreciate the untamed, unpredictable side of rock climbing.
The blocks perched atop the route have shifted, creating a real danger of loose rockfall. A climber's rope was severed by falling stones, so maintaining helmet use and avoiding linger at the climb’s upper section is critical. The top can be unstable enough that certain sections could be removed with force, indicating unpredictable rock quality.
Wear a helmet—loose blocks near the top pose rockfall hazards.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds and optimize dry rock conditions.
Bring a rack with cams up to 1 inch and a variety of nuts for protection.
The approach involves uneven, rocky footing—use sturdy hiking shoes.
The climb starts with bolts allowing a safer initial move before transitioning to traditional protection. Prepare a rack that includes cams and nuts up to 1 inch to secure the crack section. The upper segment demands careful gear placement; bringing a mix of short and extended runners is helpful around the roof exit.
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