"Deerjaw challenges climbers with a steep, technical 40-foot sport climb on Gondola Point’s striking overhang. Its careful sequence and demanding moves reward those ready for a bold single-pitch test."
Deerjaw offers a compact yet intense climb that demands both technical skill and commitment. Rising approximately 40 feet on Gondola Point’s sharp, overhanging face, this 5.10d sport route challenges climbers with its sustained movement and tricky positioning. The climb begins by clipping the initial two bolts of the adjacent route, Half Motorboat, before making a decisive traverse left onto the steep, bulging wall. From there, the rock pushes back, requiring precise footwork and steady clipping past two more bolts that guard the crux. The overhang is a bold feature that commands attention; as you shift left, the rock shifts beneath your fingertips, daring you to find secure holds amidst its jutting edges.
The final section features optional gear placements near the top—cams that provide extra security for those who prefer additional protection outside the bolt line. It’s advisable to establish a high, extended anchor before starting the route to avoid a dirty and potentially unstable topout, a tip that pays off by maintaining control when finishing.
Accessing Deerjaw is straightforward—Gondola Point lays quietly on the southwestern coast of New Brunswick, whose rocky shores frame the climb with rugged maritime breezes. The approach trail is short and manageable, winding through coastal brush and rocky ground to the base of the cliff. Weather and tides shape the experience here, with late spring through early fall providing the most reliable conditions for climbing. Footwear with good edging capability is essential, while hydration remains key as the sun can bear down on the face in the mid-day hours.
Deerjaw sits within a climbing area known for its blend of sport and mixed routes, serving up rock that feels lively and demanding. Its proximity to the Bay of Fundy means the steady sound of water frames the climb, and the ocean breeze wraps the wall with a cooling presence. The route's exposed stance invites a vivid engagement with both rock and surrounding nature, making every hold and move feel connected to the surrounding coastal landscape.
Whether you’re stepping up for your first 5.10d or looking for a high-quality pitch to sharpen your sport technique, Deerjaw delivers a crisp, focused adventure that tests your precision and respect for the rock’s playful challenge. Prepare your gear with attention to bolt clipping and optional cams, pace your energy for the overhung moves, and savor the rugged beauty that this distinct coastal cliff offers.
The topout can be messy and potentially unstable without an extended anchor. Avoid climbing above the last bolt without rigging the anchor to prevent falls onto loose rock or ledges.
Set up the extended anchor before climbing to ensure a safe and clean topout.
Approach is short but rocky—wear sturdy footwear to manage uneven terrain.
Climb during morning or late afternoon to avoid direct sun exposure on the face.
Bring hydration as the route sees direct sun during midday hours.
Standard sport gear required, focusing on quickdraws for clipping bolts; bring a small cam to supplement protection near the final moves. Pre-rigging an extended anchor at the top is recommended to avoid a tricky topout.
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