"Deer Lick offers a brief but sharp trad climb on solid granite in Holcomb Valley. Its vertical handcrack leads to a distinctive stemming crux that tests balance and technique before finishing on an easy slab to shared anchors."
Deer Lick demands your full attention from the very first move. This brief but potent trad route invites climbers into the heart of Holcomb Valley’s rugged granite realm. Starting with a vertical handcrack that tasks your finger strength and footwork, the climb quickly evolves into a face climb where precision takes front stage. The rock texture here is solid and featured, rewarding careful placements and confident movement. The real test awaits near the top in the form of a uniquely flared corner—a subtle squeeze of body and mind that forces some improbable stemming. It’s a moment that defines the route, perfectly balanced between challenge and flow. Although the protection setup is reliable, with bolts interrupting gear placements and a chain anchor shared with the neighboring Fawnskin route, this section demands respect.
Despite its brief length—just around 60 feet—Deer Lick packs a full experience of Holcomb Valley’s character: clean granite, variable crack sizes, and a finishing pitch on an easy slab that lets you catch your breath and enjoy the high desert’s wide-open sky. Approaching the climb, you’ll wander through a landscape shaped by pine scent and sun-bleached rock, setting a focused tone that matches the climb’s crisp, no-frills style.
Being rated 5.10a, Deer Lick sits at the intersection of accessibility and bite. It’s the kind of route that both confident newcomers to trad can test and seasoned climbers can respect for its technical requirements and the subtle mental game of the flared corner crux. Gear runners should prepare with a light rack tuned between micro cams and medium-sized pieces up to 2.5 inches, as this range covers placements from the initial crack to the tricky stemming section.
Local wisdom underscores timing your climb for mornings or late afternoons, when the sun angles avoid baking the granite and the thermostat lowers just enough to keep fingers nimble. Despite being part of a well-traveled climbing area, Deer Lick avoids crowding thanks to its compact nature and technical demands.
Rappelling off the shared anchors is straightforward but requires attention—double-check gear and knots to ensure a safe descent back to the forested approach trail. This short but thoughtful route offers a concentrated pulse of climbing that rewards those willing to push through its unique stem crux and savor the quiet beauty of the San Bernardino’s granite walls.
The crux’s flared corner can feel insecure due to limited protection options—place gear carefully and communicate with your partner. The fixed bolts provide some relief, but don’t rely solely on them. Always double-check anchors and rappel setups, as the descent is shared and can get busy.
Aim to climb in morning or late afternoon to avoid strong sun and overheating on the granite.
Use footwear with sticky rubber to handle the slab finish and delicate stemming moves.
Brush holds gently when safe—this keeps friction high and helps future ascents.
Approach trail can be loose; sturdy shoes and careful footing keep the hike stress-free.
Bring a standard trad rack focused on cams from micro sizes up to 2.5 inches and a set of nuts. Four bolts protect key sections, but expect to place gear actively in the initial crack and stemming corner. The route finishes on a bolt-protected slab with a chain anchor shared by the nearby Fawnskin route.
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