"Deep Throat challenges climbers with a rare combination of loose rock, steep ice, and a daunting overhanging pitch festooned with icy daggers. Situated in Glenwood Canyon, this demanding mixed route pushes endurance and technical skill over three pitches of sharply varied terrain."
Deep Throat stands out as one of Colorado’s most intense mixed routes, where rock, ice, and sheer determination intersect in Glenwood Canyon’s winter shadows. From the first step, climbers face an awkward, loose rock pitch that demands focus as they navigate past a stubborn bush and patches of moss. The initial 40 meters rise to a fixed anchor on a broad ledge, providing a moment to size up the challenge ahead.
Pitch two pushes into more committed territory. The angle tightens into an M5 corner climb, where ice increasingly coats the rock toward the summit of the pitch. This section demands careful placement and a steady pace, ending on a ledge behind a shallow cave, where a fixed angle secures the belay. Here, you pause, taking in the raw exposure and preparing mentally for what follows.
Pitch three—the heart of the line—ushers climbers into a daunting overhang of ice daggers. While it looks forbidding from below, this part is mostly a chimney-style ascent, with gear placements appearing more frequently than you’d expect amidst the frozen chaos. Patience is crucial: clearing icicles carefully, feeling for subtle holds, and moving methodically upward and slightly left to reach a fixed pin anchor 50 meters above the belay. The pitch pushes your limits physically and mentally, calling for both strength and composure under the glacier-etched spikes. Packs are a liability here—travel light and move fast.
Descend by rappelling the route with a tag line, especially to manage the tricky transitions on the second pitch anchors. Alternatively, a two-stage rappel from bolted anchors left of the route offers a safer exit if conditions permit. Be mindful during the descent: the rock and ice combination demands respect and clean rope work.
Access to Deep Throat is straightforward from the Hidden Lake Rest area, offering an easy vantage to scope conditions on cold winter days. The climb forms reliably when winter’s thaw meets cold, sunny breaks—the melting snow softens lines but leaves intact enough ice to test your tools. Conditions between January and March are prime, with temperatures in the 40s (Fahrenheit) providing the delicate balance that builds this demanding route.
Gear up thoroughly for a mix of protection: multiple runners, double ropes, and a half dozen or more ice screws are essential. Couple this with a light stopper rack and large cams from #2 to #4 Camalots to manage tricky placements and the occasional fixed pin. The variable nature of the terrain means prepping for uncertainty while trusting your skill and instincts.
Deep Throat isn’t a route for everyone—it has seen very few ascents since its first climbs nearly two decades ago, offering a raw, unforgiving experience that tests every facet of mixed climbing. Yet for climbers ready to embrace its challenges, the route delivers an invigorating blend of technical moves, mental grit, and the icy wilds of Glenwood’s backcountry. Prepare well, move carefully, and you’ll find a climb that rewards courage and skill in equal measure.
Loose rock and moss on the first pitch demand careful footwork to avoid dislodging debris. The final pitch’s overhanging ice spikes require slow, deliberate movements to prevent falls. Ensure anchor placements are solid and double-check fixed pins before committing. Beware of icy conditions changing rapidly during thaw cycles.
Approach from Hidden Lake Rest area for easy access and route observation.
Best climbed January through March when ice conditions stabilize after snowmelt.
Travel light on the final pitch—packs complicate delicate chimney moves.
Bring a tag line for rappelling to safely negotiate anchor transitions.
Expect to carry multiple runners, double ropes, and 6 to 8 ice screws. A light set of stoppers plus cams ranging from #2 to #4 Camalots are essential. Fixed pins exist but should be backed up with solid natural protection. The line requires versatility in gear due to variable placements.
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