HomeClimbingDeep Springs Education

Deep Springs Education at Westgard Pass East Side

Bishop, California United States
crack climbing
single pitch
traditional protection
High Desert
technical moves
exposed
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Deep Springs Education
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deep Springs Education provides a solid single-pitch trad climb in California’s High Desert with sustained 5.9 crack moves and reliable protection. Its mix of technical cruxes and manageable approach make it an ideal pick for climbers aiming to refine crack skills amidst a sunlit, open landscape."

Deep Springs Education at Westgard Pass East Side

Set against the arid expanse of California’s High Desert along Highway 168, Deep Springs Education offers climbers a single-pitch challenge that balances technical finesse with straightforward protection and solid rock quality. This 65-foot climb sits on the East Side of Westgard Pass, where the landscape broadens into sun-soaked quartzite walls, punctuated by sharp cracks and subtle face holds. The route presents a sustained 5.9 experience, making it a rewarding choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without venturing into overly committing territory.

From the ground, the route demands attention with its distinct crack system. The initial crux unfolds about 15 feet off the deck—a tight move that tests precision and body positioning. Opting to follow the crack directly delivers a more intense sequence that verges on mid 5.10 territory, offering an excellent challenge for those seeking to push their limits. Alternatively, sidestepping to the right onto a finger rail softens the grade just enough to stay comfortably at 5.9, without sacrificing the route’s engaging character.

Midway up, climbers encounter a ledge that provides a brief moment to collect gear and recalibrate before the next demanding section. From here, a reachy, technical move navigates past a narrowing formed by two small, angled roofs. This section tests versatility, requiring both crack and face climbing techniques as the route funnels through the constriction. The climb finishes with a direct push up crack and face features to arrive at rusty chains anchoring the top. Despite the chain’s weathered condition, the anchors remain solid, allowing for a safe top-rope or rap descent.

Protection is straightforward with a standard trad rack recommended. The crack provides ample opportunities for secure placements, though climbers should be prepared for some tricky placements around the roofed section where the rock angles shift. Overall, the rock maintains a firm consistency, giving climbers confidence in their gear placements.

The approach is manageable: a short walk from the roadside with minimal scrambling, making Deep Springs Education an accessible adventure for those seeking quality climbing without a long haul. The High Desert environment offers clear air and expansive views, with morning sun warming the rock early in the day—ideal to start climbs before afternoon heat sets in. Because the route is exposed, hydration and sun protection are crucial to plan for, especially in summer months.

Ending the climb is straightforward, with rappelling as the preferred descent method. The rusty chains mark a reliable anchor point, but climbers are advised to double-check slings and gear before committing to the rappel. The terrain below is rocky and uneven, so careful footing is necessary when returning to the base.

Deep Springs Education serves as an engaging introduction to crack climbing in this rarely crowded corner of California. The route’s mix of sustained moves and clear protection makes it a perfect mid-grade climb for those seeking a practical challenge paired with the rewards of the region’s rugged beauty.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the rusty chains at the anchor; while typically reliable, it’s essential to inspect and back them up if necessary before rappelling. The roofed narrowing section demands careful footwork and stable gear placements to avoid falls in a somewhat exposed position.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach starts directly from Hwy 168 with minimal walking and scrambling.

Early morning climbs are best to avoid afternoon desert heat.

Check rusty chains for stability before rappelling—consider backing up anchors.

Wear sun protection and carry ample water as shade is limited on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grading holds well across this climb’s sustained length, offering a consistent challenge with a crux move about 15 feet up. The direct crack variation pushes into a solid 5.10 feel, but the rightward finger rail provides a more approachable line for climbers who prefer to avoid that crux. This route sits comfortably in the moderate trad category, comparable to moderate climbs found throughout the Eastern Sierra region.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack to cover fist to slightly smaller cams; expect solid crack placements but prepare for technical gear placements near the narrow roof section.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
traditional protection
High Desert
technical moves
exposed