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December's Children at Wells Peak: A Classic Trad Ascent on Sierra’s East Face

Bishop, California United States
trad
alpine
crack climbing
chimney
multi-pitch
Sierra Nevada
exposed
technical
loose rock
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
December's Children
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"December's Children unlocks a steady crack system up Wells Peak’s east face, combining technical chimneys and delicate hand jams across seven pitches. This alpine trad climb offers solid granite and a well-deserved challenge in California’s Eastern Sierra."

December's Children at Wells Peak: A Classic Trad Ascent on Sierra’s East Face

December's Children carves a compelling line up the rugged east face of Wells Peak, a climb that marries alpine grit with classic trad climbing moves. The route threads through a striking vertical barrier of black diorite, splitting the face into upper and lower halves, with this climb gripping the lower section’s first uninterrupted crack system just right of a vast blank wall. Despite its remote location high in the Sierra Eastside, the rock here offers solid, textured granite that demands respect and rewards focus. Though the cracks carry the trace of decades, the imperfections add character rather than challenge, except for a few tight, technical moves that keep the route engaging across its 800 feet and 7 pitches.

The approach begins in Wells Canyon, where a steady 1.5-hour trek through mixed forest and talus sets the tone. The air sharpens as you near the base, with the climb’s verticality pressing close. From here, December’s Children reveals itself pitch by pitch: a combination of double cracks, wide chimneys, and hanging fingers that invite steady technique rather than wild moves.

Pitch one tests your jam skills as you follow twin cracks in a right-facing corner before easing into lower angle cracks. This solid 5.8 section builds into a massive chimney on pitch two, requiring a delicate dance over rough blocky holds while stepping right to reach a pillar belay. The third pitch challenges with a thin-to-hand crack tucked beneath a big roof, while pitch four crosses a mossy corner that demands patience and smart footwork. The crux arrives on pitch five, where a steep, somewhat dirty hand-and-fist corner leads to a tricky traverse around the arete—this 5.10 move separates the seasoned from the novice climber. Following that, the route relaxes as you negotiate cleaner cracks and blocky terrain, finishing on an exposed diorite ledge that feels carved by natural forces untouched by time.

This climb blends adventure with accessibility, offering alpine challenges without the extremes of remoteness or technical complexity found at higher elevations nearby. Protection calls for a full rack ranging from small stoppers to three-inch cams, with a single four-inch handy for the wider sections. No fixed gear anchors mark the route, so trust your placements and double-check every piece.

To make the most of your climb, tackle December's Children in late spring through early fall, when dry conditions bring reliable friction. Early starts beat the afternoon sun on this east-facing wall, keeping the rock cool and your grip solid. Descend by scrambling down carefully over loose blocks and scree, or rappel if conditions warrant extra caution. Always keep an eye on loose rock—some sections, especially near the top, can drop stones easily.

For climbers keen on a route that combines alpine exposure, sustained crack climbing, and spectacular Sierra views, December's Children delivers with honest moves and an authentic mountain feel. It asks for patience on approach, respect on the rock, and rewards with a memorable line that continues to draw climbers seeking a step beyond their usual routes.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose blocks near the top diorite ledge and in the chimney pitch; rockfall is a real hazard. Use a helmet and communicate clearly with your partner on belays and traverses. The approach, while straightforward, crosses talus fields where careful footing is critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches7
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Expect a 1.5-hour approach through Wells Canyon; leave early for cooler rock.

Protect well on wide cracks—larger cams will be your best friends.

Be prepared for dirty cracks; clean placements where possible but trust good jams.

Descend cautiously over loose scree or consider double-rope rappels if uncertain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, December’s Children sits confidently at the edge of intermediate trad difficulty. The fifth pitch crux bumps the challenge, especially due to its sustained hand jams and a tricky arete traverse. Overall, the grade feels fair, leaning neither soft nor overly stiff, and compares well with other Bishop trad routes that balance physicality with technical gear work.

Gear Requirements

Bring doubles from small to 3-inch cams, with a single 4-inch piece for the wider cracks. A full set of stoppers rounds out protection. There’s no fixed gear, so mastering gear placements is essential, especially in the chimney and crux pitches.

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Tags

trad
alpine
crack climbing
chimney
multi-pitch
Sierra Nevada
exposed
technical
loose rock