"Dealer's Choice Right in 10 Mile Canyon offers a focused 70-foot sport climb that sharpens technical skill with solid protection and a distinctly tactile granite face. Its moderate 5.9 rating makes it an accessible climb with enough bite to engage both newer and confident sport climbers."
Dealer's Choice Right at Halfway Rock is a concise yet engaging one-pitch route set against the rugged granite walls of 10 Mile Canyon, Colorado. This 70-foot climb offers a straightforward 5.9 rating, making it an approachable challenge for climbers eager to push their limits without committing to a lengthy route. From the moment your hands reach the first bolt, you’re met with solid edging and the textured feel of clean rock, inviting keen foot placements as the climb flows upward.
The route begins where the trail contacts the rock face, making access direct and efficient. After clipping two bolts shared with the nearby Dealer’s Choice Left climb, the path bends through a shallow, sharply defined groove where the rock’s texture demands attention. Keep an eye out—the groove section hides some loose fragments, reminding you to move deliberately and stay aware of your holds. Above this, the visible notch beckons, offering a final push that tests your balance and route-reading skills.
Protection relies on a series of well-spaced bolts and solid anchors, so climbers can focus on technique without worrying about gear placements. Despite the bolt protection, the route rewards steady movement and precise footwork, especially in the overlap section where the rock angles inward. The granite here has a grip that challenges your fingertips but rewards patience.
Halfway Rock’s location within the Colorado Rockies provides arresting views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, a constant reminder of the wild landscape beyond the climb. The approach is straightforward with a short hike through typical canyon terrain, blending scrub and pine, which adds calming forest scents and bird calls to the pre-climb experience.
Given its moderate length and grade, Dealer’s Choice Right is a great option for climbers targeting a precise and focused session, balancing the thrill of sport climbing with manageable risk and accessibility. It’s an inviting slice of the local crag scene that offers a taste of 10 Mile Canyon’s granite without the slog or the crowds.
Planning for this climb means preparing for variable conditions: footwear with solid edging capability is vital, and early mornings or late afternoons provide cooler temperatures when the sun shifts the angle on the vertical walls. Hydration is key—the dry air of the high-altitude canyon can sneak up on you.
If you’re coming to the area, pairing this route with nearby climbs allows for an efficient day of climbing with diverse moves and perspectives. Safety-wise, stay alert in the groove section to avoid dislodging loose rock, and approach the climb with a clear head and steady pace. Dealer’s Choice Right is both a proving ground and a chance to savor the sharp edges and clean lines that define this corner of Colorado climbing.
The groove section contains some loose rock; climbers should test holds carefully and avoid dislodging debris onto partners below. Maintain solid foot placements to mitigate slipping risks on subtly fractured granite.
Stay vigilant for loose rock in the groove section to avoid accidents.
Start the climb in cooler morning or late afternoon to avoid overheating.
Footwear with sharp edging capability will improve grip on granite holds.
Hydrate well before and during the climb due to dry canyon air.
The route is fully bolted with bolts and anchors, requiring no additional gear beyond a sport climbing rack and quickdraws. Use gear rated for sport climbs to clip bolts effectively.
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