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Deadbeat Mom's Club: A Two-Pitch Trad Route in Mt. Zirkel Wilderness

Steamboat Springs, Colorado United States
granite crack
trad
alpine
multi-pitch
chimney
exposed
remote
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Deadbeat Mom's Club
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deadbeat Mom's Club is a demanding yet accessible two-pitch trad climb in Colorado’s Mt. Zirkel Wilderness. With varied crack systems and an alpine backdrop, it challenges both technique and route-finding, perfect for climbers seeking quiet wilderness and solid granite climbing."

Deadbeat Mom's Club: A Two-Pitch Trad Route in Mt. Zirkel Wilderness

Carving a path through the rugged terrain north of Steamboat Springs, Deadbeat Mom's Club offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging alpine experience. Situated within the Gilpin Lake Amphitheatre of the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness, this 250-foot, two-pitch route moves with a natural rhythm that blends exposed crack climbing and careful route-finding in a wild setting that feels untouched yet accessible.

Starting from a solid ledge that demands attention, the climb guides you down and left into a gully, a switch in direction that keeps the momentum fresh. The gully channels your ascent toward a belay station perched 20 feet higher, providing a perfect rest spot to absorb the quiet wilderness around you. As you move onward, the route narrows into a thin crack system that angles upward and right, pulling you toward a distinct wide crack. This section puts your technique to the test, especially as the crack expands beyond the size of a #6 Camalot, teasing hand and finger jams that require both focus and finesse.

Above the widening crack, an undercling traverse beckons; it’s a deliberate move that demands trust in your foot placements and gear. The chimney beyond offers a place to pause and protect with small cams, but bigger pieces become scarce. The route then steers right again, leading into twin cracks that climb to a ramp angling up and left. The final stretch brings you to a large ledge where the rope comes off and scrambling begins, navigating toward the ridge line where the marked trail waits.

Protection demands a full trad rack—from small finger cams to a blue Big Bro—since there is no fixed gear along the climb. This emphasizes both planning and expertise in placing pro, rewarding climbers skilled in gear placement. The rock quality holds firm granite texture, and while not polished, it gives enough friction to keep confidence steady as you work your way up the crack systems.

The surrounding Mt. Zirkel Wilderness is quiet and remote, providing a strong sense of solitude and connection to the natural world. The approach is moderate, and the area’s elevation can chill the air, especially in shoulder seasons, so prepare accordingly. Climbing southeast-facing walls, the route benefits from morning sun and shade in the afternoon, making timing essential for comfortable conditions.

Deadbeat Mom's Club pairs adventure with practicality: it’s a climb that demands careful gear selection and thoughtful movement but does not overwhelm with technical complexity. It's an ideal choice for climbers looking to test trad skills in an alpine environment, with ample views that reward effort and a descent that’s approachable via a scramble to established trails.

Whether you’re stepping onto this route as a warm-up for longer alpine ventures or seeking a brief but vivid gray granite challenge, this climb offers both the thrills of natural crack climbing and the practical satisfaction of a well-protected, scenic ascent.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is generally solid but watch for loose shards near the gully approach. Gear placements can be sparse in the chimney; ensure backup anchors. Seasonal weather changes can bring sudden cold or wet conditions—dress accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches2
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun on the southeast-facing wall.

Bring a full range of cams, including at least one large piece (#6 Camalot or similar).

Scout the approach trail thoroughly—expect mixed terrain and occasional loose rock near the base.

After the second pitch, unrope carefully and follow the scramble to the ridge, watching for stable footing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating delivers moderate difficulty, with a key crux at the widening crack section where the placement of larger cams and precise movement becomes critical. The grade feels consistent with other Mt. Zirkel climbs—sturdy but with enough challenge to keep intermediate climbers engaged.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a complete trad rack ranging from small finger cams to larger blue Big Bro nuts. This route lacks any fixed protection, so solid placements are essential throughout the climb.

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Tags

granite crack
trad
alpine
multi-pitch
chimney
exposed
remote