"Dead Bird Crack serves up a measured trad climb with engaging traverses and a pumpy roof sequence on Pinnacles National Park’s East Side. Ideal for trad climbers seeking to hone gear placement and endurance in a single pitch just shy of 100 feet."
Dead Bird Crack offers a compelling introduction to trad climbing on the East Side of Pinnacles National Park. This single-pitch, 90-foot route starts in the shadow of Fly By but quickly shifts left, leading climbers into a low-angle traverse beneath a prominent roof. The traverse feels exposed despite its moderate angle; protections rely heavily on a small nut placement that demands careful extension to reduce rope drag. Once engaged in the roof, the offering of small to medium cams increases, but extending gear remains crucial as the rope can pull hard through the sequence.
Moving through the roof tests pump endurance — the steep, physical moves require commitment but reward with secure stances and clear cracks ahead. Following the crack to the left keeps climbers on the 5.9 line, avoiding the more demanding 5.10 variation that requires a direct pull over a bomber bulge and a bolt clip en route to the anchor.
The finish past a solitary piton eases into sustained 5.6 climbing, a welcome relief that leads to a pair of bolt anchors perched comfortably to climber’s right. This belay spot includes a snug pocket that allows a seated position, an unsung luxury for managing partner communication, especially during pumpy sections. With a low star rating reflecting its straightforward nature, this climb remains a solid choice for those wanting to sharpen trad skills on quality rock without overwhelming technicality.
Located in the Central Coast region of California, Pinnacles National Park’s ultramafic rock shifts and wears differently than neighboring granite parks, giving Dead Bird Crack a distinct, slightly coarse texture that feels alive beneath fingertips. The climb’s position on Discovery Wall, facing the warmth of the afternoon sun, juxtaposes shaded approaches through chaparral and oak.
Preparation here is key: reliable shoes with sticky rubber are a must, given that footwork on subtle edges and flakes can make or break the climb’s flow. Hydration and timing also matter — the trail access can channel heat later in the day, so mornings or late afternoons best avoid peak sun exposure. The approach is moderate, threading through classic Pinnacles terrain that tests your navigation skills and ambushes you at times with hidden poison oak.
For climbers eager to build confidence on trad cracks with mild protection challenges and moves that call for finesse over brute force, Dead Bird Crack is accessible yet rewarding. It sits within a varied climbing landscape, perfect for beginners ready to graduate beyond gym walls and those seeking a steady pace without the chaos of higher-grade routes. Just be thoughtful about gear extension, watch your positioning in the traverse, and anticipate the pump in the roof — this route asks for respect as much as it offers enjoyment.
The traverse at the start of the route has thin protection relying on a small nut; failure to extend gear well can cause significant rope drag and shock loading. The runout section past the fixed piton requires confident route finding and careful footwork, particularly with loose or unsettling rock. Always wear a helmet to guard against potential rockfall on approach and climb.
Approach in the cooler morning or late afternoon to avoid heat on the trail and wall.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for reliable foot placements on thin edges.
Extend all protection placements thoroughly, especially in the traverse and roof.
Watch for poison oak on the approach trails leading to Discovery Wall.
Bring a full range of small to medium cams up to 2 or possibly 3 inches. Only one fixed piton is present on the route. Top anchors consist of two bolts. Prioritize gear extension on the traverse and roof to mitigate rope drag.
Upload your photos of Dead Bird Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.