HomeClimbingDark Star

Dark Star: A Multi-Pitch Venture on The Moon’s Edge

Truckee, California United States
face climbing
multi-pitch
roof crux
Lake Tahoe
sport
technical
moderate approach
Length: 170 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Dark Star
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dark Star presents a dynamic three-pitch sport climb along the rugged right edge of The Moon near Lake Tahoe. Balancing technical face climbing with accessible crack options, it offers an ideal introduction to multi-pitch climbing framed by sweeping mountain views."

Dark Star: A Multi-Pitch Venture on The Moon’s Edge

Dark Star stakes its claim along the far right edge of The Moon, an intriguing rock formation perched above The Benches in the Lake Tahoe region. With three pitches totaling about 170 feet, this route balances technical face climbing with manageable crack sections, offering a welcoming yet engaging challenge for climbers stepping into multi-pitch terrain for the first time. The approach winds you through a landscape marked by rugged granite slabs and scattered pines, where the crisp mountain air sharpens your focus and the quiet seems to lean in as your fingers seek purchase.

The first pitch introduces you to a bulging off-width that demands precise footwork, quickly flowing into a slab section that rewards measured moves. Anchored just off a striking vertical crack, climbers face a choice: tackle the face’s 5.9- bolts or slip into the crack rated closer to 5.5, providing a less demanding but still compelling alternative. This initial climb sets a steady rhythm, blending exposure with pockets of comfort on well-spaced ledges.

Pitch two steps up the intensity with a dynamic move through a roof that tests both strength and technique. Climbing remains pegged to the face, edging slightly left from the crack—a deliberate route design that challenges balance and body positioning more than raw power. The bolt line offers security, but the sequence forces climbers to trust their foot placements, especially where feet briefly return to the crack. This pitch shines as a technical workout and a lesson in controlled movement, setting a polished tone for those eager to refine their multi-pitch skills.

The final pitch is a straightforward finish, mostly a connector that ferries you to the top of The Benches formation. This easier 5.6 section allows for breathing room and a moment to absorb the sprawling views over the I-80 corridor and Lake Tahoe’s distant blue expanse. At the summit, anchors provide options for lowering or top-roping, though down-climbing requires care and attention to rope management—especially given the final tricky moves to the upper anchors.

Protection is well-established with draws spaced for sport climbing’s comfort but expect to manage quickdraws and personal gear carefully, especially on the second pitch where bolts lead to mussie anchors. The route’s bolt placements make it manageable, but climbers should stay alert during transitions and anchor changes.

Dark Star caters perfectly to climbers seeking an approachable multi-pitch experience with pockets for challenge. It’s an excellent choice for an afternoon outing, with decent shade from surrounding trees and the best climbing conditions found in spring through early fall when temperatures are moderate and the granite dry. The climb’s location within The Moon’s broader area rewards adventurers with quiet solitude away from Lake Tahoe’s busier zones, inviting a connection with the rock and the landscape’s quiet dignity.

For those planning their trip, prepare sturdy but flexible shoes for varied terrain, bring extra water, and time your ascent to avoid afternoon heat. The trailhead is accessible with a moderate hike, offering clear markers and stable footing. Cell service can be unreliable, so bring a map or GPS to navigate. Finally, a helmet is recommended to protect against occasional rockfall exposed on the more vertical pitches.

Dark Star blends steady technical climbing with a peaceful alpine setting. It’s a route that invites you to focus on the details of movement and partnership, rewarding effort with commanding views and a palpable sense of accomplishment. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your multi-pitch skills or simply enjoy a rewarding climb in California’s high country, this route holds a practical challenge wrapped in natural beauty.

Climber Safety

Care is essential during the descent—down-climbing from pitch two with a 70m rope involves tricky moves that require controlled movement and attentive rope management. Loose rock is occasional on steeper sections, so use a helmet and mind your partner’s position when clipping.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length170 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and increase trail safety.

Wear shoes with reliable grip to navigate slab and vertical sections confidently.

Bring at least 70m of rope; 80m preferred for smoother rappelling.

Use a helmet to protect against loose rock especially on exposed pitches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating reflects a balanced challenge: the first pitch’s crack is notably easier (5.5), ideal for those warming up or preferring less strenuous moves. The roof on pitch two nudges the grade with a moderate crux but remains well-protected by bolts, making the overall grade approachable. Compared to other Lake Tahoe sport climbs, Dark Star feels on the moderate side but with technical demands that reward precise climbing rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Pitch 1 requires 8 quickdraws plus gear for anchors outfitted with quick-links. Pitch 2 involves approximately 9 draws heading toward mussie anchors, with exact numbers to be confirmed. The final pitch includes 3 bolts to mussies located left of the small pine tree at the top. A 70m rope suffices for descending from pitch 2, but careful down-climbing is necessary; an 80m rope will reach anchors with some deliberate stretching. Always watch the rope end carefully.

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Tags

face climbing
multi-pitch
roof crux
Lake Tahoe
sport
technical
moderate approach