Dark Side of the Moon carves a striking line up the rugged northern face of Mount Gimli, set in the remote Valhalla Mountains of British Columbia. This five-pitch alpine trad climb demands both technical finesse and mental grit, guiding you along sustained cracks that challenge your hand jams, stemming, and route-finding skills. Stretching 720 feet through a complex blend of corners, flakes, and chimneys, it rewards climbers with the sharp focus required to navigate its 5.10b/c sections while offering pockets of relief on easier terrain.

The experience begins by tracking a clean crack system to a bolted belay perched in a shallow, bowl-like ledge, setting the tone with exposed climbing and steady rhythm. Pitch two presses upward past the first crux, negotiating two old pitons embedded in the rock—a reminder of the route's alpine heritage—before veering left onto a subtle flake hidden from immediate view. This pitch tests patience, body positioning, and commitment as the mossy steepness ahead signals the next challenge.

Pitch three returns you to the corner crack where the route’s second crux lies—a steep, flaring section requiring precise stemming and core tension. Pushing through this section, you encounter a secluded chimney concealed by a left-facing flake; squeezing and stepping through this niche adds a dynamic, physical element to the ascent. A short walk to a bolted belay gives a moment to breathe and admire the rugged wilderness stretching below.

Pitch four lightens in technical grade but demands focus as you traverse right into a left-facing corner and thread through discontinuous cracks on a diminishing angle. The belay ledge beneath a small roof offers a breather and a vantage point on the imposing headwall ahead. The final pitch moves through a roof and brittle slabs, where careful footwork and stamina carry you past vertical challenges before easing into scrambling terrain leading to the summit.

Protective gear is fundamental here; a double rack of cams from 0.3 to #3 and a full set of nuts will cover most placements. Micro cams and a #4 cam are optional but prove useful negotiating the more isolated crack sections. Climbers must bring a 60 m rope, and for those opting to retreat early, rappelling off the third pitch's fixed anchors is possible when equipped with double ropes.

The approach tracks in the serene backcountry of the Valhlla range, accessible from trailheads near the village of Slocan. It follows well-worn alpine trails that ascend through dense forests and alpine meadows before reaching rocky base zones surrounding Mount Gimli. Plan for changing weather, and pack layered clothing as afternoon clouds often gather, cooling the rock and heightening friction on holds.

This route suits confident trad climbers comfortable in alpine conditions who appreciate a blend of sustained crack climbing and varied terrain. While the 5.10b/c rating marks this as a challenging climb, the presence of two distinct cruxes ensures moments of intense focus, with the PG13 tag cautioning less experienced parties to prepare for potential runouts. Proper footwear with sticky rubber and a strong rack of protective gear will maximize security and enjoyment on this line.

Dark Side of the Moon is a testament to the Valhallas’ legacy: rugged, rewarding, and demanding respect from those who aspire to its heights. Whether you are aiming for a bold tick or an alpine adventure that tests your route management skills, this climb delivers the raw experience and connection to wild northern British Columbia's granite backbone.