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Dark Side: A Sharp 5.9 Sport Challenge in Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Glenwood Springs, Colorado United States
black rock
bulge crux
shady by noon
pocketed holds
single pitch
sport climb
technical moves
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dark Side
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dark Side offers a compact, technical 5.9 sport climb on crisp black rock near Glenwood Springs. With a key bulge crux and reliable bolts, it balances challenge and approachability against a quietly wild backdrop."

Dark Side: A Sharp 5.9 Sport Challenge in Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Dark Side commands attention on the rugged walls of Pup Tent of Solitude, carving its way just above Main Elk Creek near Glenwood Springs. This compact 70-foot sport climb pushes you through a blend of bouldery blocks and smooth black rock, setting a focused tone from the first move. The route begins with a dynamic clip on a bolt perched on an uneven block—an immediate invitation to test balance and body tension. From there, a measured shift moves you right to a striking black face where pockets invite careful hand placements and footwork. The real challenge ignites at a bulge mid-route, the distinct crux demanding both precise strength and mental poise to surge past.

Beyond the bulge, the rock opens to textured, well-featured surfaces that ease the rhythm as you advance to the chains above. Typically shaded by midday, this aspect offers welcome relief from Colorado’s sun, making it a core choice for summer afternoons. Pup Tent of Solitude’s setting feels remote yet accessible, with the quiet murmur of Main Elk Creek nearby adding a lively soundtrack that hints at the wild landscape enveloping the route.

Effort here remains grounded within the 5.9 rating, a solid benchmark that combines technical moves with straightforward protection. Bolts are well-placed, clipping from the opening moves through to the top anchors, ensuring focus can remain on the climb rather than gear management. The climb's single pitch stretches a compact 70 feet, making it ideal for climbers seeking a concise but rewarding push of skill and stamina.

Getting to the base involves a short approach that winds along forested, uneven terrain before opening onto the block-strewn cliff face. The presence of shady pockets and solid rock texture makes footwear choice important—sticky shoes with a precise edge will enhance security on the rounded holds. Hydration is crucial; even with afternoon shade, Colorado’s arid climate can quickly sap strength, so pack accordingly.

Dark Side delivers a balanced dose of adventure and technical climbing without excessive commitment, perfect for those wanting to sharpen sport lead skills amid striking natural surroundings. Whether you’re pacing your first 5.9 or returning for a confident redpoint, this route offers a focused encounter with the raw personality of Colorado’s canyon walls.

Climber Safety

Watch footing on the initial bouldery block, which can catch hikers off guard. The rock quality remains solid but stays alert for loose debris on the approach. Avoid climbing when wet, as the shaded faces hold moisture longer.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler, shaded conditions before noon heat builds.

Sticky rubber shoes are essential for the pocketed black face.

Hydrate well—Main Elk Creek’s proximity masks Colorado’s dry air.

The approach involves uneven terrain; sturdy hiking shoes recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits the route’s moderate challenge well. Moves prior to the bulge are straightforward but require precision on small pockets, while the crux bulge adds a vertical push that elevates the effort noticeably. Climbers familiar with local 5.9s will find this route a solid test of technique without surprise stiffening.

Gear Requirements

Anchored bolts from base to chains simplify protection. One bolt initiates the climb on a bouldery block; another key bolt guards the crux bulge. Bring a standard sport rack and stick to clipping bolts as you move.

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Tags

black rock
bulge crux
shady by noon
pocketed holds
single pitch
sport climb
technical moves