"Dark Obsession guides you through delicate slab moves and technical cracks on the Flatirons’ iconic sandstone. This three-pitch trad climb balances precision footwork with solid protection and varied route-finding near Boulder, Colorado."
Dark Obsession offers a compelling blend of technical trad climbing set against the unmistakable backdrop of Colorado’s Flatirons near Boulder. This moderate 5.9 PG13 route unfolds across three pitches and roughly 500 feet of textured slab and crack climbing, rewarding climbers with both tactical moves and expansive views. The climb begins beneath bulging flakes, demanding precise footwork and solid use of underclings as you negotiate a delicate crux protected by a small TCU or Alien-sized piece. This section requires a steady hand and confidence in gear placements, as protection is sparse and demands careful attention.
Once past the crux, the route opens to a series of horizontals and slabs that rest on solid rock, providing relief and an ideal rhythm for steady progress. The varied terrain lends itself to several options: inching right leads into a deep channel and crack rated around 5.2, which intersects the East Face route at the summit ridge, while a leftward trajectory pushes toward a more obscure direct line to the ridge, inviting a bit of route-finding and adventure.
The approach to Dark Obsession navigates the heart of the Central Flatirons, an area known for its sharp, slabby sandstone and sweeping views of Boulder and beyond. Climbers will find the access straightforward but should be prepared for a moderate hike through uneven terrain and occasional scrub. The setting sun filters through sparse pines as the day winds down, cooling the rock and offering perfect conditions for late afternoon ascents.
Gear-wise, a standard light rack backs up the lead, with particular emphasis on smaller pro—0.5 to 0.75 inch cams—to secure the crux moves effectively. Given the route’s runout sections, it's important to remain focused, placing gear precisely and moving deliberately to manage risk.
For descent, climbers typically follow established rappel stations or downclimb carefully along the ridge. While the terrain is generally stable, caution is key, especially in loose sections where rockfall could be a hazard. Timing your climb to avoid rapid temperature changes helps maintain solid friction on the slab, contributing to safer, more confident movement.
Dark Obsession embodies a well-rounded moderate trad climb that balances technical challenge with accessibility. It demands a solid understanding of gear placements, comfort on slabby terrain, and adaptability for route-finding, making it an inviting choice for climbers aiming to sharpen trad skills within the iconic Colorado wilderness.
This route’s personality comes from its exposed moves under bulging flakes, the quiet focus needed to place gear on sparse pro, and the understated beauty of the Flatirons’ rugged terrain. If your itinerary takes you to Boulder, Dark Obsession offers an engaging climb with a practical edge—technical enough to test your mettle but accessible enough to inspire confidence. Prepare with steady shoes, a light rack emphasizing small cams, plenty of water, and an early start for cooler rock and thoughtful climbing.
Watch for runout sections between bolts and gear placements, especially near the crux under the bulging flakes. Old webbing and rotten flakes have been removed, but stay attentive to rock quality throughout. Loose rock on the ridge and descent calls for careful movement and helmet use.
Start early to beat afternoon heat and ensure rock remains cool and grippy.
Bring a full set of light cams, focusing on smaller sizes for key protection spots.
Scout potential belays carefully on the upper pitches—some sections require creative anchors.
Approach via the Central Flatirons trailhead for the most direct, well-maintained access path.
Expect to rely on a light rack with emphasis on 0.5-0.75 inch cams for the crux. Alien cams, particularly a green Alien, fit perfectly in the critical placements, while the remainder of the route requires standard trad gear. Protection is limited around the crux, making precise placements essential.
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