"Dark Angel carves a focused 100-foot path up a haunting black seam on California’s Main Slab. This trad climb blends crack placements with a striking runout crux, demanding both precision and mental grit from adventurous climbers."
Dark Angel, also known locally as The Ghost, offers a compact but intense traditional climbing experience on California’s Main Slab. This 100-foot route invites climbers to engage with a striking dark streak etched into the granite—a challenge that blends careful protection management with solid movement on mostly clean rock. Beginning at the base of the ghostly black streak, climbers face a seam that can be approached directly or reached by a traversing entry from the left, giving some strategic options depending on your style and comfort with exposure.
Progressing upward, the seam offers thoughtful crack placements before you hit a quieter, blanker section. Here, the risk heightens—the crux emerges in a bolt-protected sequence where a fall could mean decking if protection isn’t carefully managed. After navigating this delicate runout, the route runs mostly straight towards the left side of the ghost's 'head,' a distinct feature high on the wall. Along the way, a traverse across a ledge allows you to clip a bolt belonging to the adjacent route "The Roof"—using a long runner here reduces rope drag and improves safety.
Protection is selective but essential on this climb. Three bolts punctuate the harder sections, and a #2 Camalot provides the primary camming piece for anchoring in cracks that can feel sparse but reliable when placed correctly. The gear placements reward attentive, confident climbers comfortable balancing the mental aspects of a runout with physical execution.
Situated in the Inland Empire’s Big Rock Area, Dark Angel commands attention from climbers looking for a short but meaningful adventure that blends crack climbing, seam movement, and thin face climbing. The granite is solid and features excellent friction, ideal for precise footwork and careful hand jams. The wall faces roughly west, so late afternoon sun can warm the rock nicely, though early summer attempts might benefit from a morning start before the sun climbs high.
Approaching the route involves a moderate hike along Main Slab’s trails, roughly 15–20 minutes on rocky terrain that rewards steady-footed travelers. The approach gains gentle elevation before arriving at The Ghost's base, where the striking dark streak becomes unmistakable against the lighter granite face around it.
Descending is straightforward, typically done by rappelling from the anchors at the top. Two ropes or a 60m rope work best to side-step the landing zone safely. Climbers should ensure their anchors are securely set and be wary of loose rock while descending.
Dark Angel offers a concentrated dose of technical crack and seam climbing with a memorable crux and thoughtful protection. With its moderate length and trad protection, it suits climbers ready to push their gear placements and enjoy the adventurer’s mindset without committing to an all-day haul. This climb is a solid choice for trad climbers who appreciate a route that challenges both mental acuity and tactical climbing skills amidst the subtly rugged beauty of Southern California’s granite walls.
The section after the seam involves a runout bolt with potential for serious fall consequences if protection is bypassed or gear fails. Pay close attention to gear placements and use long runners to reduce rope drag on traverses. Loose rock near anchors warrants careful testing during descent.
Start early to climb in cooler morning shade before the wall bakes in afternoon sun.
Bring a #2 Camalot and a set of standard cams for the crack sections.
Use a 60m rope for clean rappels from the top anchors.
Approach trail is rocky and uneven—wear sturdy hiking shoes with good traction.
The route is protected by 3 bolts strategically placed around the crux and a key #2 Camalot cam for crack placements. Using long runners on the ledge traverse helps reduce rope drag and increases safety while moving towards the anchors.
Upload your photos of Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.