The Dariush of Balanat route carves its way up the raw granite faces of Devil's Head Rock, demanding a blend of finesse and grit across six pitches that unfold over nearly 600 feet. The climb stretches out, revealing a shifting playground of slab, face, and crack climbing — each pitch a distinct character, alternating between mellow slabs and technical moves that test your gear placement and route-finding skills. The approach is straightforward but requires focus: keep your shoes ready for a steady walk-off at the end, which feels welcome after the vertical push.

From the very first pitch, you face a right-facing corner with bomber protection opportunities, weaving through awkward chimney-like steps that challenge body positioning and patience. The rock here carries the marks of time — patches of greenery along the route speak to its less-trodden nature, and a few loose flakes might remind you that this climb retains an old-school personality.

Pitch two is a delicate negotiation with a flare crack that angles leftward, guarded by scattered plants that obscure gear placements but never fully deny them. The crux arrives just before the crack ends: a thin undercling roof guarded by carefully placed slings demands controlled precision and steady breathing. The belay nestles near a solid horn of rock, providing a reassuring pause before the route twists upward.

Pitch three leads you right to clip bolts that ease the difficulty but do not rob this pitch of its thoughtful movement. A series of medium cams can supplement protection here, especially along a crack and flake system that allows for some breathing room between more exposed moves. The terrain reminds climbers that this isn't a bolt-magnet route but one that rewards careful placements and calculated rests.

The fourth and fifth pitches often get linked, presenting a challenging arch flake that feels like a narrow gateway carved into the granite. Options diverge here — face climbing to the left past bolts or a more gear-reliant corner route to the right — before merging into a crack system that is moderate but holds its own in complexity. Vegetation creeps in patches, creating a slightly scruffy impression that calls for steady feet and sharp eyes.

The final pitch stands out as the crown jewel and the true test. Hidden bolts do not reveal themselves easily, encouraging climbers to focus on subtle features — a solid face inset, intermittent cracks, and the occasional hand jam. Protection on this face demands careful placements of stopper sizes from #4 to #7. The crux is thin and sustained, peppered with fixed bolts that provide a safety net, yet the moves require commitment and attention. As the intensity eases, the summit rewards you with peace and a long walk-off northward — an excellent time to swap climbing shoes for approach shoes and appreciate the towering granite behind you.

For those planning the ascent, expect to carry a rack that covers small to large cams along with a collection of stoppers. Long slings are invaluable for preserving rope drag, especially on the extended pitches where gear may be spaced out. The bolts, generally solid 5/8" placements, are a welcome reassurance on the less gear-protected sections.

Devil’s Head Rock itself sits amid Pine Junction’s rugged foothills, offering clear air and expansive views toward the South Platte area of Colorado. The rock’s orientation lends itself to morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid the hottest sun, while late spring through early fall offers ideal climbing conditions. Come prepared for loose rock in spots and unpredictable flora patches, and take care on the approach and descent trails.

Dariush of Balanat is not for climbers seeking polished sport routes; it’s an old-school, trad challenge where attention to detail pays off and each pitch unfolds a new chapter of vertical movement. Experience and caution will guide you safely through this storied line. When finished, the walk-off and the quiet wilderness beyond remind you why these granite faces continue to call devoted climbers back year after year.