"Dappled Mare offers a classic four-pitch trad climb on Lost Horse Wall, blending solid crack climbing with a standout dihedral and desert vistas. Ideal for those stepping into sustained 5.8 challenges, this route balances accessible protection with engaging moves across varied terrain."
In the sunbaked expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, where the desert climbs rise sharp and unyielding against the endless blue, Dappled Mare beckons the trad climber hungry for a steady adventure. This four-pitch route on the right side of Lost Horse Wall offers a hands-on dance with cracked granite, weaving through unexpected corners and features that keep the climb engaging without demanding extremes. From the moment you leave the washbed behind and start up the approach boulders, the wall reveals itself as a climbing puzzle—a subtle blend of easy traverses, finger cracks, and a standout left-facing dihedral that commands attention on the third pitch.
The approach itself is straightforward but worth pacing mindfully: the wash that runs beneath the wall gives way to scattered boulders and desert brush, hinting at the granite awaiting above. Once at the base, the climb opens with a relaxed 5.6- pitch, moving up and left on straightforward terrain before settling onto a ledge and crossing right to the main crack. This sets a measured tone, easing you into the rhythm before the wall ramps up its challenge.
Pitch two tightens focus on a distinct crack system rated 5.8, where both cracks near the bottom force you to read the rock carefully before fully committing to the left side. Here, gear placements come naturally, making for a safe and confident ascent. The fixed three-bolt anchor feels like a hidden clubhouse at the top of this pitch—a welcome rest stop with sun-warmed granite beneath your fingers.
Pitch three commands the heart of the route. The traverse, 15 feet down and left, leads into a dihedral that seems to beckon with its perfect finger cracks and ample protection. Climbers with a shorter reach may find a slight edge here, as the moves feel less stretched out. Pausing as you settle into the dihedral, the rock itself appears to press gently, inviting you to lean in and find a balance between power and finesse. Above, the crack thins and angles back, leading to another solid gear anchor. A perfect moment to pause and look out toward the jagged horizon of Joshua Tree’s iconic boulders and ridges.
The final pitch offers options, but the recommended path follows a subtle, right-leaning crack that skirts around a patch of Pancake Prickly Pear—a prickly reminder that nature watches closely, even on descent. The pitch drops in difficulty but demands careful attention to avoid the sharp cactus. Ending about 15 feet shy of the cliff’s edge, the gear anchor here is your final reward, solid and reassuring.
Protection is straightforward: a standard trad rack works well, with plenty of gear placements through most pitches. Careful route-reading on pitch three is essential to avoid a runout near the top if you drift too far right in the dihedral. The approachable nature of the route, combined with its consistent 5.8 cruxes, makes Dappled Mare a fine choice for intermediate climbers looking to test lead skills in a stunning desert environment.
Approach timing favors cooler parts of the day to avoid overheating on the sun-exposed wall and desert floor, with morning climbs offering shade on the shaded sections of the right wall. Descending involves downclimbing and scrambling carefully off the top, so climbers should remain alert for loose rock and desert fauna.
In sum, Dappled Mare delivers a desert climb that balances adventure, manageable challenge, and scenic payoff. Its glassy crack systems and expansive views reward the climber willing to engage fully with the desert’s raw character and Joshua Tree’s enduring call.
Careful attention around the traverse section on pitch three is essential; a misstep can lead to an awkward fall due to runout if gear is sparse. Additionally, the top pitches skirt sensitive desert plants and loose rock—maintain situational awareness and respect the fragile environment.
Start your climb early to avoid the afternoon sun baking the wall and desert floor.
Watch for the horizontal traverse on pitch three; identifying the left-facing dihedral below it is key to staying on route.
Pack gloves for scrambling over boulders on approach and protect your hands from prickly cactus near the top.
Be mindful of protected desert flora like Pancake Prickly Pear, especially on pitch four's exit crack.
A standard trad rack suffices for Dappled Mare, highlighted by solid crack placements on all pitches. Prepare for a longer runout possibility near the top of pitch three if you choose the right crack option within the dihedral; well-placed gear is plentiful elsewhere.
Joshua Tree
Twentynine Palms
Joshua Tree
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