HomeClimbingDan's Crack

Dan's Crack: A Tactical Trad Climb at Devil's Head

Colorado Springs, Colorado USA
fist crack
single pitch
slab approach
southeast aspect
BD C4 cams
scramble to anchors
South Platte climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dan's Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dan's Crack is a compact, technical trad route in Devil's Head that hones your fist jams and slab moves within a single, powerful pitch. Its straightforward protection and exposed scramble to anchors make it a rewarding climb for those who value precision and efficient movement."

Dan's Crack: A Tactical Trad Climb at Devil's Head

Dan's Crack offers a focused trad climbing experience that balances solid technique with straightforward movement against Colorado’s rugged Devil's Head terrain. The climb begins on a clean, well-defined crack system that immediately invites your hands and fists to engage. Starting with reliable handholds, you’ll quickly find the crux: a move transitioning from two perfect hand grips to a secure fist jam. Beyond this demanding section, the holds open up, flowing into a steadier rhythm that rewards controlled pacing. After reaching the top—just 40 feet of climbing—the adventure continues with a short but exposed 40-foot traverse across 3rd to 4th Class slab, requiring confident footwork to reach the anchors set comfortably on solid rock.

This route demands a tactical mindset rather than brute strength. Protection calls for a single rack of BD C4 cams from sizes #1 to #4, fitting neatly into the crack’s features. Be mindful that the anchors sit atop the slab, so the final approach involves careful scrambling rather than a straightforward descent. The location within the Devil’s Gate sector provides a quiet, concentrated climbing session well-suited for climbers looking to sharpen finger jams and slab movement in one pitch.

The descent promises a walk-off on uneven terrain, so sturdy footwear and attention to footing are essential. Approach trails are moderate and well-marked, setting the tone for an efficient day out. Because the crack lines face southeast, morning climbs offer cooler conditions before the sun fully warms the rock in afternoon hours. This route invites climbers who appreciate a crisp, hands-on challenge with an accessible yet varied finish—a perfect mix for those refining crack technique without length or complexity.

Climber Safety

The route lacks fixed anchors atop the slab; climbers must carefully traverse a 3rd to 4th Class slab to reach the belay. Loose footing here requires deliberate steps, especially when descending or lowering off.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach via marked trails that take about 20 minutes from the parking area.

Early morning climbs are cooler; the southeast-facing crack heats quickly by midday.

Wear sticky shoes suited for crack jams and slab footing.

Plan for careful foot placement on the final slab approach – loose rock is rare but possible.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9- PG13, Dan's Crack feels accessible but carries a crux early on where precise fist jams are key. The grade is well-matched to the physical demands without artificial softening; compared to nearby Devil's Gate climbs, this route offers a cleaner, less abrasive experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of BD C4 cams from #1 to #4; this rack covers all the needed protection for placements within the crack. No fixed anchors at the top—prepare for a short walk-off on slab to reach the anchors.

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Tags

fist crack
single pitch
slab approach
southeast aspect
BD C4 cams
scramble to anchors
South Platte climbing