Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingDangling Derelict

Dangling Derelict: A Bold Roof Crack on Pistol Whipped Wall

Big Bear Lake, California United States
roof crack
hand jams
single pitch
slab approach
pine tree belay
trad climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dangling Derelict
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dangling Derelict is a focused, one-pitch trad climb featuring a demanding roof crack at the fringe of Pistol Whipped Wall. With precise hand jams and technical moves, this short but intense climb offers an accessible yet memorable challenge for crack climbers visiting Big Bear."

Dangling Derelict: A Bold Roof Crack on Pistol Whipped Wall

Dangling Derelict stands out as a short yet compelling testpiece located on the far left edge of the Pistol Whipped Wall in the heart of the San Bernardino Mountains. This one-pitch trad route, just 40 feet in length, offers climbers the thrill of negotiating a sharp roof crack where a sequence of precise hand jams and technical moves are essential to pull through the overhanging lip. The approach involves a brief slab section that demands steady footwork before you commit to the crack itself.

The crack requires solid trad skills, with placements reaching up to 2.5 inches, so bringing a mid-sized rack is a must. Once committed, the sustained section under the roof challenges your endurance and crack technique without excessive length, making it a focused and intense experience rather than an endurance test. At its top, a sturdy pine tree provides a secure belay station, offering a moment to catch your breath and soak in the rugged surroundings.

The Pistol Whipped Wall forms part of the Central Pinnacles near Big Bear Lake, an area prized for its steep granite faces and varied climbing options. The rock here has a gritty texture that rewards clean smearing and precise jams, though weathering has smoothed some features near the roof, so focus is crucial. The approach trail is short and accessible, with an easy walk-off to the climber’s left after finishing the climb, making the descent straightforward and efficient.

Climbers should plan for mid-day to afternoon ascents when the wall is warmed by the sun, helping the crack dry quickly after moisture. The route is ideal for climbers comfortable on moderate roof cracks who want a quick but memorable challenge away from the busier sections of the wall. Since the protection relies solely on cams and nuts rather than bolts, careful placement and checking gear security are critical to a safe ascent.

Local wisdom suggests arriving early to avoid the heat of peak summer afternoons and to watch for loose blocks near the approach slab. Footwear with sticky rubber and a good fit will assist in the slab section, while chalk helps maintain grip for the hand jams. Overall, Dangling Derelict is a compact gem for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills against the dramatic backdrop of the San Bernardino Mountains, with an accessible setup that blends exposure with approachable logistics.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the slab approach as some loose rock can be present. Double-check all trad placements up to 2.5 inches since the protection relies solely on removable gear. Descending requires careful footing on the walk-off—avoid rushing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid rising temperatures on the slab approach.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the slab section before the crack.

Use ample chalk for hand jams under the roof to maintain grip.

Watch for loose rock near the approach and test placements carefully.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating here accurately reflects the technical demands of the roof crack and the need for sustained hand jam strength. It feels true to grade with a crux at the lip that tests core tension and balance. Climbers familiar with similar trad cracks in the region will find this a satisfying but not overly stiff challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with cams up to 2.5 inches for secure placements along the crack. The belay is anchored by a solid pine tree at the top. No fixed gear is present on the route.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Dangling Derelict and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

roof crack
hand jams
single pitch
slab approach
pine tree belay
trad climbing