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Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw: A Classic Trad Line in Ontario's Devil's Glen

Collingwood, Ontario Canada
hand crack
granite
single pitch
easy crack
walk-off
trad gear required
Ontario climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dancing in the Dragon’s Jaw offers an accessible yet satisfying trad experience in Ontario’s Devil’s Glen. This straightforward single-pitch hand crack invites climbers of varying skill levels to engage with clean granite and enjoy a quiet, forested ascent with minimal protection requirements."

Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw: A Classic Trad Line in Ontario's Devil's Glen

Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw offers climbers an engaging taste of trad climbing just off the beaten path in Ontario’s Devil's Glen. This single-pitch route, rated 5.6, is anchored by a diagonal weakness that cuts left of Veronica, presenting a straightforward line that appeals to trad novices and those looking to sharpen their hands-on crack technique without overwhelming technical demands. The crack itself welcomes a hands-wide approach, inviting climbers to feel the split between rock faces as they ascend—crisp edges and textured surfaces providing solid placements despite the absence of fixed protection.

The setting feels alive, with the rock face catching early morning light that warms the rough, weathered granite. The air hums softly with birdcalls and the rustling of leaves stirred by a gentle breeze, while the nearby forest, dense with mature pines and hardwoods, frames the route with a quiet solitude that balances concentration with refreshing wilderness immersion.

Access to the climb requires a short hike through the Devil's Glen area, a cherished bouldering and climbing region characterized by rugged, pocketed granite and a welcoming sense of remoteness without being difficult to reach. The walk to the base is well-marked yet retains a natural edge—leaf-strewn ground, roots underfoot, and the occasional brush of shrubbery reminding climbers they are in a living landscape.

Since the protection is minimal, the route demands careful attention to placing gear and trusting one's skills. The crack’s angle and texture offer reliable friction for hands and gear placement, but this route rewards climbers who move deliberately and respect the rock’s natural challenges. It’s an excellent spot for those testing introductory crack climbing drills while surrounded by vibrant woodland and the calm that comes from stepping off the grid but remaining accessible.

Upon reaching the top, a simple walk-off back down the ridge allows a quick and safe return without the need for complex descending techniques. The surrounding vista includes pockets of forested slopes and open sky, offering a quiet moment to reflect before heading back to the trailhead or scouting nearby lines. Weather conditions in this part of Ontario favor spring through fall climbs, with cooler mornings and stable dry rock creating optimal climbing scenarios.

Practical tips for visiting include ensuring solid rubber-soled shoes to grip the textured granite, carrying adequate water—even on shorter hikes—and scheduling climbs earlier in the day to avoid midday heat and maximize the golden morning light filtering through the trees. This route suits both early trad learners and seasoned climbers looking for an accessible yet rewarding crack climb away from busier crags.

Climber Safety

While the rock offers reliable friction, the lack of fixed protection means careful gear placement and attentiveness to foot and hand holds is essential. The walk-off descent is easy but uneven; take care navigating loose soil and rocky steps, especially when fatigued.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch the sun on the face and avoid afternoon shade.

Wear shoes with good grip, as granite texture demands solid footholds.

Pack enough water, as there's limited natural sources nearby.

Prepare for a straightforward walk-off descent—no rappel gear needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating feels appropriately soft but not trivial, making it a solid choice for beginner to intermediate trad climbers. The diagonal crack provides a sustained, hands-wide climb that requires focused technique but avoids committing cruxes. Compared to other Devil's Glen lines, it ranks as approachable and welcoming—great for those stepping into crack climbing for the first time.

Gear Requirements

This route offers no fixed protection, so climbers need to bring a standard trad rack capable of placing hands-wide cracks securely. Smaller cams and nuts will work best here, as placements rely on natural constrictions and subtle features in the rock.

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Tags

hand crack
granite
single pitch
easy crack
walk-off
trad gear required
Ontario climbing