HomeClimbingDancin' Fool

Dancin' Fool: A Raw Trad Challenge at Hartman Rocks

Gunnison, Colorado United States
runout
small gear
exposed
single pitch
spring climbing
nesting birds
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dancin' Fool
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dancin' Fool offers a focused trad climb on a raw, runout wall at Hartman Rocks, granting a dose of adventure that tests both skill and composure. Its sparse protection and rugged setting make it a memorable challenge for climbers stepping into more serious terrain."

Dancin' Fool: A Raw Trad Challenge at Hartman Rocks

Tucked into the groove walls of Hartman Rocks near Gunnison, Colorado, Dancin' Fool offers climbers a sharp taste of traditional climbing with a lean, elemental feel. This 60-foot single-pitch route skirts just left of a worn crack system, demanding focus as it threads its way up a relatively exposed face. The rock itself holds a weathered, rough texture that rewards attentive footwork and steady protection placement. What sets Dancin' Fool apart is its runout nature—protection is sparse compared to many nearby lines, leaving climbers with a genuine sense of adventure and a test of mental grit.

The setting amplifies this feeling: the rock face opens to stark blue skies, while the wider Hartman Rocks area extends beneath you with rugged shrublands and expansive views of the Gunnison valley. Winds sweep across the ledges, carrying the sharp scent of pine and earth, and in spring, a raven's nest is found tucked near the base, a vivid reminder of nature’s rhythms alongside human pursuits of the vertical.

Though the route is short, the need for precise gear placement and controlled movement rewards experience and careful beta. Four bolts anchor fixed points, but between them protection relies on traditional gear, encouraging respect for rope management and continuous assessment of fall potential. The pitch’s moderate 5.9 rating feels solid but accessible, making it a strong choice for climbers moving up from easier terrain who want to sharpen trad skills without committing to multi-pitch exposure. Its particular crux lies not in difficult moves but in managing the runout sections with steady nerve.

Approach involves a straightforward hike from the Hartman Rocks trailhead, crossing short sections of loose talus and sparse scrub, with clear signage guiding you to the Leap of Faith sector. The walk-in is gentle and takes about 15 minutes, allowing for a prompt start before afternoon winds build. Timing the climb for morning hours means cooler rock and calmer air, improving friction and overall comfort.

Essential gear includes a standard single rack with a focus on smaller cams and nuts suited for narrower placements along the sparse cracks. The four bolts offer secure anchors, but bringing slings and quickdraws for safe transitions between traditional pieces is advised. Climbers should respect the breeding season for local ravens—this delicate wildlife moment calls for limiting disturbance and possibly postponing ascents during early spring.

The descent is straightforward: a single rappel from two bolts with chains deposits you safely at the base, with no tricky scrambles required. Keep an eye on rope retrieval as the line runs clear of brush but can catch strands if mismanaged.

Hartman Rocks itself provides a semi-arid landscape defined by high desert shrub and exposed faces, drawing climbers eager for quiet, open spaces and technical challenges without the crowds. The area’s elevation and clear skies make for ideal days nearly year-round—though summer heat can peak, making spring and fall the prime windows for a visit. Dancin' Fool captures this spirit of connection with the raw outdoor rock, blending a stretch of focused climbing with the quiet reminders of the wild around you.

Climber Safety

The runout nature of this route means falls can be serious if gear placements aren’t solid. Ensure your rack includes small cams and nuts for reliable protection and be cautious around the raven’s nest to minimize ecological disturbance. Loose rock and brush near the base warrant careful approach and rope management during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Hartman Rocks trailhead with a 15-minute hike across loose talus and sparse scrub.

Aim to climb in the mornings for cooler, grippier rock and calmer wind conditions.

Respect the nearby raven’s nest in spring by avoiding climbs in early breeding season.

Rappel down using the two bolt anchors; watch your ropes to avoid snagging on brush.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Dancin' Fool sits comfortably within moderate trad climbing standards but feels more demanding due to its runout sections. Unlike typical 5.9 routes that offer frequent gear, this climb tests your nerve and gear judgment. The crux is mental—maintaining composure on exposed stretches with fewer placements than nearby routes of similar grade.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on smaller cams and nuts due to limited crack size and sparse placements. Four fixed bolts with chains provide solid anchors, but expect runouts between them requiring reliable gear placements and slings for safety.

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Tags

runout
small gear
exposed
single pitch
spring climbing
nesting birds