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Dags in Beanland: A Classic Trad and Sport Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Estes Park, Colorado United States
slab climbing
crack climbing
multi-pitch
well-protected
rocky mountain
established anchors
trad
sport
raspberry quartz
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Dags in Beanland
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dags in Beanland on Seam Rock offers four pitches of enjoyable trad and sport climbing with solid protection and a blend of slab and crack moves. It’s a rewarding 5.8 climb in Estes Park Valley that balances technical challenges with spectacular mountain views."

Dags in Beanland: A Classic Trad and Sport Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Dags in Beanland unfolds on Seam Rock, a striking formation perched several miles up the dirt route beyond Combat Rock in the Estes Park Valley of Colorado. The climb begins with a straightforward approach: park at a small pullout on the left side of the dirt road and head northward, scaling rugged slabs that drink in sunlight and whisper with the touch of mountain breeze. The trail soon dips into a shallow draw before rising again along water-streaked rock faces, signaling you’ve reached base camp for this multi-pitch adventure.

This four-pitch route, rated a moderate 5.8, offers a balanced mix of traditional and sport climbing that appeals to a range of climbers. The rock here demands attention—solid, textured faces and quartz streaks that catch your eye as you move upward. Pitch one initiates a low-angled scramble up and right, eventually crossing a blank patch marked by a lone bolt. From here, the route bends left, following a large quartz vein that provides runout but manageable moves to a comfortable ledge, offering a brief rest where the mountain catches its breath.

Pitch two steps up the challenge with a short crack and a steeper slab packed with bolts. The climbing becomes more technical and deliberate here; balancing on tiny holds feels like a conversation with the rock itself. The pitch skirts past a roof, hugging the feature’s left side, then climbs a steep dike, passing bolts that mark the way to a secure two-bolt anchor.

Pitch three maintains momentum with playful climbing up fun, bumpy rock. Protection placements spread out, requiring thoughtful gear placements but well worth the effort for the movement and exposure. This pitch ends on a generous ledge shaded by pine trees, a natural perch to soak in the surrounding valley and prepare for the final push.

Pitch four is where the route files its signature. Starting with a small roof that challenges your flexibility, it continues up to a twisted juniper clinging to the rock like an old guardian. A crack system beckons next, inviting hand jams and finger locks, leading to a face strewn with perfect holds and two well-placed bolts. The pitch culminates on a ledge with an optional belay before tackling a series of bulges protected by solid gear. The angle eases off for the last 40 feet, giving space to stretch and savor the summit. The full pitch is a long, rewarding 200-foot dance on excellent stone.

Protection on Dags in Beanland requires a compact rack complemented by quickdraws for bolts peppered along the route. Climbing veterans recommend two 60-meter ropes for rappels, as fixed anchors spaced strategically along the descent make abseiling straightforward yet demanding precision. The anchors, painted camo green to blend with nature, create a reliable rappel line starting from the summit and descending through ledges and pockets marked by twisted junipers and quartz veins.

Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the best conditions. The route’s eastern exposure catches morning sun, easing cold starts but shielding climbers in afternoon shade. Approach trails are unpaved but well-defined, a brief but gritty reminder that this climb lies far from the bustle, rewarding those willing to invest effort before the first hold.

Dags in Beanland stands out as a solid option for those seeking classic slab and crack climbing in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, offering practical challenges on high-quality rock without overstating difficulty. The blend of short technical cruxes, ample protection, and scenic views makes it an ideal mid-level climb for trad and sport enthusiasts looking to balance adventure with reliability.

Climber Safety

Anchors are well fixed but spaced at times; ensure clear communication during rappel and double-check that both 60m ropes are properly threaded. The approach slope can be slick when wet, so take care crossing the water-streaked slabs especially in early spring runoff.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches4
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning sun on the eastern aspect before it slips into shade.

Use two 60m ropes for full rappels from the fixed anchors.

Wear sticky-soled shoes to handle low-angle slabs and technical cracks.

Bring extra water and snacks—the approach is quiet but dusty, so hydrate well.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here is solid but approachable with a few stiff moments, especially on pitch two where balancing on bolts and steep slabs tests footwork. The route feels fair for its grade, with better protection than many local 5.8 climbs, making it suitable for climbers looking to push slightly beyond easy slab climbing while maintaining safety.

Gear Requirements

Bring a small rack for traditional placements plus quickdraws for the bolts scattered along the route. Two 60-meter ropes are recommended for the rappel descent via fixed camo green anchors. Protection includes one bolt on pitch 1, five on pitch 2 with a two-bolt anchor, one bolt on pitch 3, and two bolts on pitch 4. The anchors are well designed for secure rappels but expect some spacing between them.

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Tags

slab climbing
crack climbing
multi-pitch
well-protected
rocky mountain
established anchors
trad
sport
raspberry quartz