"Cursed Crack is a finger-intensive trad route featuring steep, technical moves on a slender 50-foot crack. Its mixed rhythm shifts from tight jams to a wider corner, perfectly representing Squamish’s demanding yet accessible climbing style."
Cursed Crack invites climbers into a focused test of finger strength and smarts on one of Squamish’s distinctive trad lines. This single-pitch, roughly 50-foot route threads a slender crack that demands precise gear placements and steady technique. You begin by working through a series of somewhat awkward moves before settling into the narrow crack—the rock here demands respect, its steep angle steeling your resolve as you hunt for subtle jams. The initial 15 feet call for careful protection; it’s not the sort of climb where you rush placements. Adequate pro here is crucial to stave off any whips and maintain confidence as you ascend.
Midway up, the crack's angle deceives at first glance—it looks gentler than it climbs. You’ll engage in sporty moves requiring a blend of finger locks and delicate footwork, pushing past the steeper section toward a satisfying jug. After gaining that rest, the route opens into a wider hands-to-wide section where you navigate a left-facing corner. This shift in crack size challenges your versatility, exchanging the pure finger-jamming battle for a more open, measured rhythm.
Protection demands a well-thought-out rack focused on smaller cams and stoppers, especially favoring finger-sized pieces. Experts recommend saving a #2 or #3 cam for the upper sections where the crack widens. Anchors at the top are fixed, allowing for a safe, straightforward belay or descent. The rock quality is solid granite, offering reliable friction and clean features but staying alert for any lichen or moisture, as the northwestern climate occasionally weighs on surface dryness.
The climb resides in the Top Shelf area, accessible via the Mamquam Forest Service Road. The approach is short but packed with forest scents and filtered light through towering evergreens. Anticipate a 10–15 minute hike with some uneven forest floor terrain, which demands sturdy footwear and moderate packs. Arriving early can reward you with quieter surroundings and cooler temperatures, ideal during warmer months when the sun hits later in the day, leaving this shaded wall fresh and pleasant.
Cursed Crack’s rating of 5.10c feels justified—challenging but fair. The crack’s shape and the tough initial moves provide the crux, testing your ability to read the rock and manage gear under pressure. For those familiar with Squamish’s classic finger cracks, expect similarities to routes like "The Grand Wall" but with a more aggressive start that will push your technical edge.
Prepare for your climb with a focus on finger-strengthening exercises and refine your crack climbing technique. Also, hydration is key—the approach might be short, but your focus effort ramps up heart rates quickly on this type of climb. Layer appropriately for the weather, as coastal fog or breeze can chill even in summer. Finally, double-check your rack for sufficient small cams and a handful of stoppers, as protection quickly becomes the puzzle’s centerpiece.
In essence, Cursed Crack rewards those willing to apply precision and patience, delivering a compact but engaging trad experience that captures the character of Squamish climbing—balanced between technical demand and the rugged beauty around you.
Watch your protection early on; placements can be thin and require careful judgment. Moisture on the rock is occasional—avoid climbing immediately after rain to prevent slips. The fixed anchors are reliable but double-check slings and carabiners before descent.
Start early to enjoy cooler conditions and less busy trails.
Ensure finger crack protection is well-practiced—placement precision is key.
Check weather for moisture; damp rock reduces friction significantly.
Wear sturdy footwear to handle the uneven approach through forest terrain.
Bring a rack heavy on finger-sized cams and stoppers, with crucial #2 and #3 cams saved for the wide section near the top. Fixed anchors provide secure top belays.
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