HomeClimbingCrystal Catch

Crystal Catch: A Technical Trad Climb at Checkerboard Rock

Estes Park, Colorado United States
runout
trad
exposed
long-slings
sharp-crystals
multi-pitch
colorado-alpine
Lumpy Ridge
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Crystal Catch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crystal Catch challenges climbers with a mix of technical face moves and runout knob sections on Checkerboard Rock. Ideal for those who appreciate bold protection and a taste of Colorado’s alpine edge, this two-pitch trad route invites thoughtful gear management and steady nerves for a rewarding outing."

Crystal Catch: A Technical Trad Climb at Checkerboard Rock

Crystal Catch offers a compelling end-of-day climb on the Checkerboard Rock formation, sitting within the rugged contours of Lumpy Ridge and overlooking the expansive Estes Park Valley. This trad route demands a blend of technical skill and mental focus, beginning with several challenging moves low on the first pitch that test your crack and face climbing finesse. The initial difficulty quickly gives way to a runout knob section rated around 5.7, where careful route-finding and patience are key. To manage the sparing protection here, savvy climbers ease the exposure by moving right to secure gear placements, relying on long slings to accommodate the distance between pro points and reduce rope drag. Midway up the first pitch, slings mark a safe rappel anchor point, offering an option to descend if the upper sections feel out of reach.

The climb extends beyond the first pitch with a second section ascending sharp crystals to Surrey Ledge. While not frequently repeated, this pitch invites climbers to select a groove—ideally the second from the left—to reach the top. The rock’s texture and crystal features here add variable challenges and a unique tactile experience. Light, standard trad gear suffices, but expect to deploy long slings, especially on the upper part of pitch one to mitigate the runnout sections effectively.

Approaching Crystal Catch entails a moderately steep approach, rewarding climbers with scenic views of the Estes Park Valley amid the striking backdrop of Lumpy Ridge’s rugged cliffs. The route’s historical roots trace to a first known ascent by Scott Kimball and Harry Kent in 1976—a reason enough for those interested in climbing history to take on this line. Despite its lower average star rating, the climb’s mix of technical sequences, exposure, and traditional protection offers an engaging challenge for intermediate trad climbers looking to round out their day with adventure and technical finesse.

Expect a compact climb, roughly 150 feet over two pitches, well suited to those comfortable with runout climbing and managing gear placements under exposure. The rock quality is typical of the area: solid but featuring sharp edges and fragile crystals that require attentive climbing. To prepare, bring a light rack with an emphasis on cams and nuts sized for standard Lumpy Ridge cracks, as well as multiple long slings for extending protection lines. Cooler parts of the day or late afternoon requests a dynamic approach to timing, considering shade on east-facing walls and shifting sunlight that influences friction and comfort.

Descending is straightforward via a rappel from slings at the top of pitch one or continuing on pitch two, then downclimbing to the base. The solitude found here after busier routes nearby lends a peaceful conclusion to the effort. Crystal Catch beckons the adventurous trad climber willing to balance calculated risk with the reward of movement on rock shaped by sharp geology and classic Colorado alpine character.

Climber Safety

The route’s sparse protection calls for precise gear placement and mental readiness for runout climbing, particularly on the first pitch’s knob section. Sharp crystal formations can be brittle; test holds carefully before trusting them. Rappelling from pitch one is safest option if unsure about pitch two.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Use long slings on the upper first pitch to manage runout protection effectively.

Rappel anchors are fixed at the top of pitch one if you choose not to continue.

Approach via established trails in Lumpy Ridge; allow 30-45 minutes from trailhead.

Climb in cooler parts of the day to benefit from shade and improved rock friction.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 R, Crystal Catch features a crux low on the first pitch with some sustained sequences that demand strong technique and boldness due to sparse protection. The runout knob climbing feels closer to 5.7 but requires mental focus to handle gaps cleverly using extended gear placements. This grading is typical for local Lumpy Ridge routes where protection is often stretched but still manageable for seasoned trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring a light trad rack focusing on cams and nuts that fit standard Lumpy Ridge cracks. Long slings are essential for reducing rope drag on runout sections, especially on the upper part of pitch one.

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Tags

runout
trad
exposed
long-slings
sharp-crystals
multi-pitch
colorado-alpine
Lumpy Ridge