"Crown Royal offers ten varied pitches of classic trad climbing in the striking setting of Colorado's 10 Mile Canyon. Balanced between technical slabs and crack sequences, it challenges both body and mind while delivering stunning mountain views."
Crown Royal stands as a rewarding challenge along the rugged cliffs of 10 Mile Canyon, offering climbers a compelling blend of technical moves and varied terrain over ten distinct pitches. Located just outside of Frisco, Colorado, this trad route demands both attention and respect, weaving through sections of slabby rock, finger cracks, and subtle ledges that test your skill while rewarding you with expansive views of the surrounding mountains.
The approach to Crown Royal begins shortly after the bike path sign, where a narrow, well-trodden trail slides briefly into the trees before fading into the brush along the canyon’s edge. Look for subtle markers—a piece of cord tied to a tree, signals from earlier ascents—that guide you toward the base of the climb, where a prominent slab rises before you. The opening pitch sets the tone with a smooth, step-like slab that feels just right underfoot, culminating at a two-bolt belay positioned on a comfortable ledge. As you settle into the rhythm of this route, you'll quickly find that the rock carries characters both rough and refined: moss and patches of lichen cling stubbornly to certain sections, a reminder of the climb’s blend of natural wear and climber interaction.
From there, Crown Royal flows through a series of pitches that vary between technical slab climbing and crack sequences. The second pitch asks for steady feet and quiet concentration as you clip bolts beneath a roof before veering onto a slab and a delicate "wasserrinne," or water groove—a place where the rock seems to have been carved by consistent flow, now daring you onward. Pitch three, affectionately known as “the coffee table pitch,” challenges climbers with thin slab moves that require balance and trust in your footholds as you traverse near a dead snag.
One of the route's highlights happens midway through the climb. Pitch five offers superb rock quality, taking you past fixed protection and toward a prominent arête where the belay sits in a sheltered gully. Following this, the sixth pitch features a short but memorable finger crack leading into a bulge with face moves that push the limits for climbers at the 5.9 grade, opening up to sweeping views that reward your effort.
As the climb progresses, the terrain shifts—scrambling through tree-lined belays and crossing scree fields that separate Crown Royal from neighboring routes like Royal Flush and Royal Rocklette Arête. The final pitches bring you up exposed ledges and disconnected cracks that demand careful footwork and steady nerves. Pitch eight’s finger layback crack invites you into the steeper terrain, while the ninth pitch requires a delicate traverse across exposed ledges before the last pitch leads you along the ridge toward the summit.
Protection on Crown Royal calls mainly for traditional gear: quickdraws, long slings, and a small but precise assortment of nuts and Camalots (ranging from C3s to size #1). The rock quality varies—expect some loose flakes and areas with moss or lichen—which means careful gear placements and cautious climbing are essential. Good communication is encouraged, as the route is popular with groups ranging from novice to experienced, often climbing in visible and audible contact on multiple pitches.
Timing your ascent matters: early morning starts allow for cooler rock and fewer crowds, while afternoon sun can heat up the slabs, making for brisk, challenging friction. Descending involves careful planning, as the terrain requires either rappel setups or downclimbing; keep an eye on the tree anchors and familiar landmarks to ensure a safe exit.
In all, Crown Royal offers an engaging traditional climbing experience built around variety and subtle complexity. Whether you link pitches to move quickly or savor each section with a belay, this route carves out an afternoon of physical movement balanced with natural rhythm and rewarding views. Prepare wisely, stay alert to changing conditions, and relish the moment when the cliff, the rope, and your determination come together on this memorable Colorado classic.
Loose rock, moss, and lichen are present throughout the climb, especially on outer flakes and lower slabs—exercise caution on placements and foot placements. Some belays rely on natural anchors like massive trees; inspect these carefully before weighting. The approach trail can be faint—navigation aids help prevent disorientation.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and minimize crowds.
Watch for subtle trail markers on the approach to avoid getting off-route.
Link pitches carefully—some belays are on wide ledges, others in tree cover.
Check gear placements diligently; moss and lichen can hide loose rock.
Essential gear includes quickdraws, long slings, and a curated set of nuts and Camalots from C3 to #1 sizes. Be ready for some tricky placements on varied rock surfaces, including mossy patches and loose flakes.
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