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Crown of Thorns: South Face Challenge at Black Tower

Apple Valley, California United States
arete
roof
technical crux
exposure
bolted anchor
single pitch
moderate
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crown of Thorns
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crown of Thorns on the south face of Black Tower delivers an accessible yet engaging single-pitch climb. With a striking arete topped by a sizeable roof, the route combines exposure and a fun, technical crux that sharpens your skills."

Crown of Thorns: South Face Challenge at Black Tower

The Crown of Thorns route presents a compelling blend of moderate difficulty and engaging movement along the south face of the Black Tower in California’s High Desert. From the moment you step onto the base, the climb’s distinctive arete draws your eye—jutting out with a robust roof perched above, it demands respect but doesn’t intimidate. Launching from the arete’s edge, you push upward and slightly right, feeling the rock’s texture under your fingertips as you approach the roof. This section tests both your balance and resolve, requiring a shift into exposed climbing that teases out every ounce of technique you’ve honed.

The route’s namesake "thorns"—sharp, angular features etched into the rock—force an intriguing crux sequence that challenges your footwork and body position. Here, the climb reveals its character: not overly complex, but enough to keep you focused and proud as you navigate the delicate movements. Beyond this, the climb eases into a series of slab moves that grant access to the bolted anchor above, offering a moment to catch your breath and take in the High Desert’s expansive views.

Accessing the climb is straightforward; a short hike to the Black Tower places you at the heart of Apple Valley Crags. The rock quality is dependable, and the bolted protection ensures confidence through the route’s single pitch. After summiting, a controlled rappel delivers a smooth descent back to ground level, avoiding any uncertain downclimbs.

For climbers looking to expand their High Desert repertoire, Crown of Thorns provides a practical introduction to exposure and technical footwork without overwhelming commitment. The route runs approximately 30 feet, making it an accessible option during late afternoons when the south face basks in warming sun—a perfect way to savor crisp desert air blended with the rock’s gritty embrace.

Preparation is key: sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber enhance toe precision on the arete and slabs, while a fresh chalk bag and steady hands boost confidence through the thorny crux. Water and sun protection are essential for this exposed setting. Ultimately, the Crown of Thorns invites climbers to meet the rock on its terms, offering a concentrated burst of movement that balances exhilaration with practical challenge in the heart of California’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Though protected by bolts, this climb includes moves on exposed terrain near a sizeable roof. Maintain control during the crux and approach the anchor with care. Heat can intensify risk in this sunlit, arid environment, so plan hydration accordingly.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the peak desert heat on the south face.

Bring sticky shoes for precision on the arete and slab moves above the crux.

Chalk up well before the thorny crux section to maintain grip.

Use the bolted rappel for a safe and tidy descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair for the route's exposure and technical moves, with a crux sequence that elevates the difficulty slightly. While not strenuous, the climbing demands clean footwork and confidence on the arete and roof. Compared to other sport climbs in the High Desert, Crown of Thorns offers a focused dose of challenge without overwhelming complexity.

Gear Requirements

The route is bolted with four bolts and finishes at a bolted anchor, making protection straightforward and reliable for the climb's moderate difficulty. The roof requires careful positioning, but no additional gear placement is necessary.

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Tags

arete
roof
technical crux
exposure
bolted anchor
single pitch
moderate